Type: Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bruce Kay and partners, ~2011
Page Views: 1,896 total · 87/month
Shared By: Doug Hutchinson on Aug 3, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Pitch after pitch of laser cut granite splitters up to .11- on clean stone in a beautiful alpine setting makes Mighty Mouse one of the finest alpine climbs on the BC west coast (if not anywhere). Naming notes – the original topo for this route was labelled “East Face” but this specific route is now called Mighty Mouse. The formation was named Mouse’s Tooth because of its resemblance under winter conditions to its larger and more famous neighbor to the north – the Ruth Gorge’s Moose’s Tooth. Mouse’s Tooth contains several other existing and potential routes.

Note - in late 2017 or early 2018 bolted anchors were added to every pitch except P4, including a new anchor that logically split the former 60M+ P6 into two pitches so I updated the pitch numbers to reflect the changes. This may make some comments or ticks confusing since the old P7 (seam/slab pitch) is now P8. Since I haven't climb the route after the new anchors were installed,some of my anchor beta may be inaccurate. 

P1. Climb the left arete (just right of large gully typically filled with snow) with several bolts on the face and cross left under roof on flakes and blocks using cracks for gear to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. Fun bouldery climbing with occasional awkward moves. 45M, 10c

P2. Climb the face just right of arete on left skyline, clipping two bolts, then start up vegetated ledges. Pass tree on left with slings at 30M  by staying right and head up another 30M of easy scrambling on vegetated ledges to a 2-bolt anchor. 60M. 10a

P3. Traverse rightward across the last section of dirty ledges aiming for a left-facing corner leading to a splitter above. Stem off pillar on left and corner on right and gain splitter which is the appetizer for better/harder splitters above. 30M 5.9+

P4. Start in the right hand crack which narrows to fingers, moving left into twin finger cracks. Stem and grasp between two cracks with crux near the top. Build anchor on ledge. 20M, 10d

P5. Move left off belay to splitter fingers to hand crack, crux is first few off finger moves then eases. At about 25M do NOT continue following the splitter that keeps going straight up and left of roof, but instead traverse right under roof on feet and hand dyke rails (5.8ish airy fun, almost no pro) to an anchor below roof. 40M, 10d

P6. Move right off belay and pull roof and smile when you see the perfect hands splitter soaring above for 30M. Pulling the roof is about.10a but quickly becomes 5.8/5.9 perfect hands (for those with larger hands). With double BD Camalot #2s and #3s this will be run-out and walking pieces is required, or bring triple or quadruple #3s if #3 isn't your perfect size. At 35 M reach a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. 35M 10a (note - can combine P6 and P7 into a 60M rope stretcher which is how we climbed it, but the new anchor makes this strategy unnecessary).  

P7. Climb the finger crack above. Crux is near end as finger crack flares. 25M 11a

P8. Thin right-trending crack up steep slab. Pro is tricky because stances are insecure and crack is thin and flares. Lots of offset nuts useful, micro cams occasionally work. This is mostly slab climbing with a thin seam for pro and pinches. Heady, tenuous lead. At top, keep going past the first ledges and trees encountered and belay at a slung tree on a higher ledge. (There may be an alternative easier bypass variation in the vegetated cracks to right.) 50M, 11-

The steep headwall ends here and five easier lower angle pitches lead to summit. Most parties rappel from here. Need two 60M ropes.

Location

From the parking described in the North Joffre Lake area description, hike up the old spur road and immediately cross first creek/wash out on log just upstream and drop back down to abandoned road. In 5 minutes where the road becomes completely reclaimed by vegetation, take a trail uphill on the right. Follow a decent climber’s trail (well flagged, cut, and marked with cairns) up and right that parallels North Joffre Creek through boulder fields and alder/brush. Trail stays well above creek until about one hour when it deposits you down to edge of North Joffre Creek. Head up right and above creek until nearly below Mouse's Tooth and cross over creek (snow field in late July). Head up boulder fields to base of left arete with large gully on left. Two hours or less to base of route, pleasantly moderate approach.

Protection

Double Camalot-size .3 to 3. Could use 3 or 4 #3s for the splitter above roof (P6). Micro cams and lots of small offset nuts/RPs for P8. Two 60M ropes needed for the rappel.
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
There are new bolted anchors and rap stations on almost every pitch (at least through P7, where we rapped). Pitch 4 still needs a gear anchor. Rap the route. At the top of pitch 2 there are a set of rap anchors that go more directly down the gully and likely help avoid pulling ropes over loose rock. Thanks to whomever put in the time and effort. Great route. Jul 6, 2018
wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Amazing climb! One of the best. My Report: waynewallace.wordpress.com/… Jul 23, 2018
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
DESCENT BETA. From top of Pitch 8, rap the route (bolted anchors) with double ropes as follows:
1. Top of P8.
2. Top of P7.
3. Top of P5.
4. Top of P2. (do NOT rap to top of P1, instead rap towards gully)
5. Bolted station above gully.
See the route overlay I posted for a visual. Aug 15, 2018
Doug Hutchinson
Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Doug Hutchinson   Seattle, WA
  5.11-
I just edited the description to reflect the new bolted anchors, so my original pitch count changed from 7 to 8. Aug 21, 2018