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Routes in North Joffre Creek

Mighty Mouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bruce Kay and partners, ~2011
Page Views: 300 total, 69/month
Shared By: Doug Hutchinson on Aug 3, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Pitch after pitch of laser cut granite splitters up to .11- on clean stone in a beautiful alpine setting makes Mighty Mouse one of the finest alpine climbs on the BC west coast. Naming notes – the original topo for this route was labelled “East Face” but this climb is named Mighty Mouse. The formation was named Mouse’s Tooth because of its resemblance under winter conditions to its larger and more famous neighbor to the north – the Ruth Gorge’s Moose’s Tooth. Mouse’s Tooth contains several other existing and potential routes.

P1. Climb the left arete (just right of large gully typically filled with snow) with several bolts on the face and cross left under roof on flakes and blocks using cracks for gear to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. Fun bouldery climbing with occasional awkward moves. 45M, 10c (originally graded 10d, felt easier because I assume it is cleaning up)

P2. Climb the face just right of arete on left skyline, clipping two bolts, then start up vegetated ledges. Pass tree on left with slings at 30M (2nd to last rap anchor) by staying right and head up another 30M of easy scrambling to belay at a large tree (no slings) with clear view of headwall pitches. 30M to rap tree with slings, 60M to higher tree. 10a

P3. Traverse rightward across the last section of dirty ledges aiming for a left-facing corner leading to a splitter above. Stem off pillar on left and corner on right and gain splitter which is the appetizer for better/harder splitters above. Belay at nut anchor and spacious ledge. 30M (from higher tree). 5.9+

P4. Start in the right hand crack which narrows to fingers, moving left into twin finger cracks. Stem and grasp between two cracks. Build anchor on ledge. 20M, 10d

P5. Move left off belay to splitter fingers to hand crack, crux is first few moves then eases. At about 25M do NOT continue following the splitter that keeps going straight up and left of roof, but instead traverse right under roof on feet and hand dyke rails (5.8ish airy fun, almost no pro) to a four nut anchor below roof. 40M, 10D

P6. Move right off belay and pull roof and smile when you see the perfect hands splitter soaring above for 30M. Pulling the roof is about.10a but quickly becomes 5.8/5.9 perfect hands (for those with larger hands). With double #2s and #3s this will be run-out and walking pieces is required, or bring triple or quadruple #3s if #3 isn't your perfect size. At 35 M reach a so-so ledge, build a gear anchor and belay here or keep going up the finger crack above. Crux is near end as finger crack flares. Rope stretching 60M to a good ledge with one 1/4" bolt and two nut anchor. 11a

P7. Thin right-trending crack up steep slab. Pro is tricky because stances are insecure and crack is thin and flares. Lots of offset nuts/RPs needed, micro cams occasionally work. This is mostly slab climbing with a thin seam for pro and pinches. Heady, tenuous lead. At top, keep going past the first ledges and trees encountered and belay at a slung tree on a higher ledge. (There may be an alternative easier bypass variation in the vegetated cracks to right.) 50M, 11-

The steep headwall ends and five easier lower angle pitches lead to summit. Most parties rappel from here.

Location

From the parking described in the North Joffre Lake area description, hike up the old spur road and immediately cross first creek/wash out on log just upstream and drop back down to abandoned road. In 5 minutes where the road becomes completely reclaimed by vegetation, take a trail uphill on the right. Follow a decent climber’s trail (well flagged, cut, and marked with cairns) up and right that parallels North Joffre Creek through boulder fields and alder/brush. Trail stays well above creek until about one hour when it deposits you down to edge of North Joffre Creek. Head up right and above creek until nearly below Mouse's Tooth and cross over creek (snow field in late July). Head up boulder fields to base of left arete with large gully on left. Two hours or less to base of route, pleasantly moderate approach.

Protection

Double Camalot-size .3 to 3. Could use 3 or 4 #3s for the splitter above roof (P6). Micro cams and lots of small offset nuts/RPs for P7. Two 60M ropes needed for the rappel.

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