Avg: 4 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Bruce Kay and partners, ~2011|
|Page Views:||5,573 total · 118/month|
|Shared By:||Doug Hutchinson on Aug 3, 2017|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Note - in late 2017 or early 2018 bolted anchors were added to every pitch except P4, including a new anchor that logically split the former 60M+ P6 into two pitches so I updated the pitch numbers to reflect the changes. This may make some comments or ticks confusing since the old P7 (seam/slab pitch) is now P8. Since I haven't climb the route after the new anchors were installed,some of my anchor beta may be inaccurate.
P1. Climb the left arete (just right of large gully typically filled with snow) with several bolts on the face and cross left under roof on flakes and blocks using cracks for gear to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. Fun bouldery climbing with occasional awkward moves. 45M, 10c
P2. Climb the face just right of arete on left skyline, clipping two bolts, then start up vegetated ledges. Pass tree on left with slings at 30M by staying right and head up another 30M of easy scrambling on vegetated ledges to a 2-bolt anchor. 60M. 10a
P3. Traverse rightward across the last section of dirty ledges aiming for a left-facing corner leading to a splitter above. Stem off pillar on left and corner on right and gain splitter which is the appetizer for better/harder splitters above. 30M 5.9+
P4. Start in the right hand crack which narrows to fingers, moving left into twin finger cracks. Stem and grasp between two cracks with crux near the top. Build anchor on ledge. 20M, 10d
P5. Move left off belay to splitter fingers to hand crack, crux is first few off finger moves then eases. At about 25M do NOT continue following the splitter that keeps going straight up and left of roof, but instead traverse right under roof on feet and hand dyke rails (5.8ish airy fun, almost no pro) to an anchor below roof. 40M, 10d
P6. Move right off belay and pull roof and smile when you see the perfect hands splitter soaring above for 30M. Pulling the roof is about.10a but quickly becomes 5.8/5.9 perfect hands (for those with larger hands). With double BD Camalot #2s and #3s this will be run-out and walking pieces is required, or bring triple or quadruple #3s if #3 isn't your perfect size. At 35 M reach a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. 35M 10a (note - can combine P6 and P7 into a 60M rope stretcher which is how we climbed it, but the new anchor makes this strategy unnecessary).
P7. Climb the finger crack above. Crux is near end as finger crack flares. 25M 11a
P8. Thin right-trending crack up steep slab. Pro is tricky because stances are insecure and crack is thin and flares. Lots of offset nuts useful, micro cams occasionally work. This is mostly slab climbing with a thin seam for pro and pinches. Heady, tenuous lead. At top, keep going past the first ledges and trees encountered and belay at a slung tree on a higher ledge. (There may be an alternative easier bypass variation in the vegetated cracks to right.) 50M, 11-
The steep headwall ends here and five easier lower angle pitches lead to summit. Most parties rappel from here. Need two 60M ropes.