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Routes in Trail Lake Pinnacle AKA Goliath Spire

Behemoth T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Larsen Aid Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1+
Mini Moses S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spring Fever S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technicality S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tourist Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Wide One, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YTP Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Joe Larsen 2-21-71
Page Views: 222 total · 39/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Aug 2, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Private Property Details

Description

Climb the obvious crack in the middle of the southwest face without using the bolts of Mini Moses to the left. The crack starts at the ground and accepts small cams for the first section (C1-). When the cam placements get trickier and the rock has a lower angle white band, make some free moves (well protected 5.7) past some loose rocks to a large ledge. The physical crux is transitioning from aid to free at this point. The crack narrows drastically here and continues upward, slanting slightly right. Place a piton to get off the ledge and a Leeper cam hook as the next piece. This is the logistical crux at A1+. From a high step on the hook, place a medium cam behind a block then follow the much wider crack as it goes sharply left. There is a fixed #1 cam in this crack. At the end of the crack make a few 5.4 moves through blocks to the summit.

Protection

Cams .3-3 including a .4 and doubles of .5 and .75, 1 thin Lost Arrow piton, 1 regular Leeper cam hook, a pink (.5) tricam for a placement at the beginning of the wide, left-angling crack, some quickdraws, etriers, etc.

It would go clean with a second cam hook replacing the piton, but this would make it C2 or higher because if the second cam hook popped, you would deck onto the ledge.

Location

This is the complete crack about 10-20 feet climber's right of the bolt line on Mini Moses on the southwest face of the pinnacle. It wanders below the white band, then trends slightly right and then sharply left.

Photos

Eli Boardman
Boulder, Colorado
 
Eli Boardman   Boulder, Colorado
 
I updated the first ascent data accordingly. I couldn't see any scars in the lower or middle crack. Aug 3, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
This was the route of Joe Larsen's FA of the tower back in '71. I also heard from Davin Bagdonas that he had done the presumed FFA of the tower via a variation of this line in '98 or '99. He definitely didn't free the initial crack, but started somewhere off to the right and then upper cracks. I'll see if I can find the notes he sent me. Piton scars in the initial crack were still visible when I was there 15 yrs ago. Aug 2, 2017