Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Main Wall
|Axium S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dafni S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Delta S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Elia S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Ghost Rider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Lilo S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Remember Wadi Rum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sisyphus Jr. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Super Totenhansel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Thimari S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Totenhansel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 120 ft|
|FA:||A Theodoropoulos, S Montmory '10|
|Page Views:||48 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Mr. Stevens on Aug 1, 2017|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay|
DescriptionStart on Totenhansel, but where that route breaks right, stay straight. Now that you're moderately pumped, perform some bouldery moves and some cruxy clips. Really fun movement through this section, but the rock is a bit slippery. Not polished, just the nature of the stone in this section. Reach a horizontal break where the orange/white rock ends and the gray rock begins. Shake out as best as you can (maybe a kneebar?) and pull the overhang on surprisingly good holds. Get established on the face and get a no hands stance. The next clip is very high up, but the climbing is easy. From there, perform some cryptic and technical moves through a few more clips and hit the chains.
Cool route and pretty sustained as there are no tufa sit downs or anything like that. The bolting takes away from the climbing as a lot of the clips are tough and there are an insane amount of bolts. I think it was 20. I'd honestly recommend skipping some bolts in the lower section to conserve energy and prevent rope drag.
Also, the route is listed in the guide as 40 meters, but I had TONS of rope left with my 80 meter. A 70 meter should be fine, but always tie a knot!
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