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Routes in Main Wall
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Achilles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Achilles Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Axium S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dafni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delta S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Durgol S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Elia S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fantasma S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ghost Rider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ioli S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kalyminette S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remember Wadi Rum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sisyphus Jr. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sisyphus Junior Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Totenhansel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Talon S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thimari S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Totenhansel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | A Theodoropoulos, S Montmory '10 |
| Page Views: | 1,285 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Stevens on Aug 1, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Start on Totenhansel, but where that route breaks right, stay straight. Do you dare use the large tufa of Totenhansel to rest? Now that you're moderately pumped, perform some bouldery moves and some cruxy clips. Really fun movement through this section! Reach a horizontal break where the orange/white rock ends and the gray rock begins. Shake out as best as you can and pull the overhang on surprisingly good holds. Get established on the face at a nearly no-hands stance. From there, perform some cryptic and technical moves through a few more clips and hit the chains.
I'd recommend skipping 1-2 bolts in the lower section to conserve energy and prevent rope drag, as they are very close together, and the second-to-last bolt as it is right in the middle of a tough sequence and the previous bolt protects the move perfectly.
Also, the route is listed in the guide as 40 meters, but I had TONS of rope left with my 80 meter. A 70 meter should be fine, but always tie a knot!
I'd recommend skipping 1-2 bolts in the lower section to conserve energy and prevent rope drag, as they are very close together, and the second-to-last bolt as it is right in the middle of a tough sequence and the previous bolt protects the move perfectly.
Also, the route is listed in the guide as 40 meters, but I had TONS of rope left with my 80 meter. A 70 meter should be fine, but always tie a knot!
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