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Routes in Left Wall

5 Ans Apres S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Absent Friends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bali Balo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulduin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exotic Ambeli S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Globus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hour of Ghosts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joy in the Garden S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Mythe de la Caverne S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Olympiakos for Elias S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pic Pic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resista S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route 66 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sea Side S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taverna Psirri S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weissmatten S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: B Girardin, C + Y Remy '06
Page Views: 150 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Aug 1, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This is the route that little 11c's want to be when they grow up. Men want to be it, women want to be with it, and mothers fear it.

Start up some easy slab until the wall starts to get a bit steeper. Perform some very thin and technical moves and then swim up jugs upon pockets upon jugs as the wall steepens to just past vertical. A final bouldery sequence guards the final section before the wall slabs out again and takes you to the anchor.

This route, along with Resista, and Joy In The Garden, are three of the best face climbs I've ever done. Holy crap.

Location

Straight up the depression of the left wall, right between Resista and Joy In The Garden.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
A jewel, all 13 bolts of it. Technical crux on the black pepper area near/around the 8th bolt? A series of moves will have you on good, deep and heavily chalked pockets. Sep 10, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
Easy start, technical thin center (probably the crux), and a pumpy gas-out at the top. Dec 1, 2017

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