Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Gilson 1957 Ground Up
Page Views: 214 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jim Slichter on Jul 31, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is an old school, blue collar route that does not involve loose rock or run out face climbing. It is well protected crack climbing on the first pitch with the second pitch involving some easy face climbing that is also protectable. Start on the NW corner of Wrinkled Rock at the base of the huge dihedral. Climb a crack through a small bulge above a medium sized pine tree to gain the upper ramp. Continue to the upper wide crack in the dihedral which is the crux of the climb. From below it appears to be off width size but is really more of a hand crack once you start up it. However it does make you appreciate what a 5.6 crack is all about especially if you are used to pinching crystals and clipping bolts. We belayed at the top of the wide crack to minimize rope drag then moved the belay 30' to the left to start the second pitch. There appear to be a number of options for the second pitch but we climbed up over a bulge that was about as far to the left as you could reasonably go. The other options were more direct but appeared from below to be harder. The second pitch ends on the ridgeline from where it is an easy scramble to the actual summit.

Location

This route faces west and is on the NW corner about 30' left of the bolt line for Tomcat Tracer.

Protection

One set of finger sized nuts and cams 0.5"-3" for the first pitch. Some small size TCU's protect the second pitch.

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