Type: Sport, Alpine, 600 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,463 total · 54/month
Shared By: Ewan Marsheem on Jul 29, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

This excellent route follows the prominent ridge line stretching from toe to summit of East Buttress. Great rock, chill approach, easy alpine climbing (only a handful of 5.5 moves), primarily fixed protection, and great views make this one of the best easy climbing outings in the Bozeman area (in my opinion).

For the right variation (same grade and slightly better quality IMO), start about 17ft up from the main drainage that splits the ridge. The first piece of pro is about 15ft up. Climb through awesome featured rock keeping an eye out for a two bolt belay on the left near some small trees. Continue up the continuously narrowing sharp and exposed arete to another bolted belay. Follow this ridge to the top of a last triangular headwall feature. From of the top of the triangular headwall, step right and climb a short 15ft section of easy 5th class to a tree belay.

The way the left variation was intended to be climbed, however, is a bit of a mystery to me so if anyone has any info on this line and who established it, please message me so I can update this page!

Even though there is a prominent line of bolts and pitons there really isn't a super great way to break up the left variation into individual pitches due to mostly absent bolted or natural anchors. Because of this, the best way it seems to enjoy this route is to simul-climb. I will describe the route, and in doing so, I will note the possible areas (at least as far as I saw) to belay to break up the route.

Start this route at the toe of the buttress, just to the left of the obvious gully that runs up the center of the buttress. Climb up the blunt toe, through cool rock and holds, passing bolts and pitons to access the ridge line (5.5). Follow spaced bolts and pitons staying on the ridge, eventually leading to an obvious change of ridge lines, where the current ridge you're on becomes too steep and vegetated to continue. The two ridges are separated by a short ledge to cross the gully to the right and continue following black bolts and pitons up another sharp ridge (5.5). There is a possible belay off of a tree just before the ledge crossing. A 70m rope will definitely reach here.

After transferring ridges to the right, continue up the now more sharp and exposed arête to a bolted belay not far from the crossing (not sure a 70m can reach here from the bottom, maybe an 80m?). This bolted belay is shared with the right variation and follows its ridge line for the last pitch. 

To descend, see the descent info listed on the East Buttress page.

Location

Start at the toe of the buttress to the left of the obvious gully.

Protection

Bolts and pitons. You could possibly supplement with natural pro but would mostly be unnecessary. Bring 8-10 alpine draws, 8-10 quickdraws and some slings or webbing for the tree belay. Wear your helmet.

Photos

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