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Sexy Sadie

5.10a, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Brian Wyvill and Jane Service, July 1983
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Lake Louise > Little Beehive- Billy…

Route description

The start of the route is on the left side of the formation, to the right of a gully that leads to the top, on a ledge you can scramble to from below. You will see a prominent black streak above leading down to the start (see picture).

Pitch 1 (35 meters, 5.10a): start on a ledge to the right of a small detached pinnacle, around the corner from a shallow verticle cave. Follow the steep, slightly overhung, small finger crack up past a small roof, continue up and right to a good ledge.

Pitch 2 (25 meters, 5.8): go left up a flake from belay ledge, to the left of the black streak, steep with good holds, top out on blocky summit, 10 meters away from the hiking trail.

Gear: single rack to 4"

Descent: walk off down the hiking trail from the summit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brice leading pitch 1, about to get to the crux of the route, a thin, mossy, corner crack up left of a small roof that's slightly over hung and sparse on holds.
[Hide Photo] Brice leading pitch 1, about to get to the crux of the route, a thin, mossy, corner crack up left of a small roof that's slightly over hung and sparse on holds.
View of route from the base of the formation.
[Hide Photo] View of route from the base of the formation.
The route (approximately), with my rope gun Brice about to make what is likely the second ascent. I followed to give the route name legitimacy, obviously.
[Hide Photo] The route (approximately), with my rope gun Brice about to make what is likely the second ascent. I followed to give the route name legitimacy, obviously.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brice Pollock
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I did a lot of cleaning on lead. You might have to dig a bunch of moss or plants out to find holds in cracks. Doesn't seem to get climbed that often Jul 30, 2017