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The Thorn Bush

5.12d, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade V,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Cody Scarpella and Ian Cavanaugh
Idaho > Central Idaho > Sawtooth Range > Elephant's Perch
Warning Access Issue: Please use WAG bags for human waste and pack it out! See request from the Wilderness Ranger in the Sawtooths. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Thorn Bush is an old aid line which was neglected for far too long. The name is derived from the obvious thorn bush which sits in the middle of Pitch 5 and, in the subtle words of Cody, you can "high step the shit out of that bush!" The route sits on a part of the wall that is often overlooked as many of the other classics on the wall sit either left of right, but if you are looking for an adventure, escape from the crowds or just simply some amazing rock not often touched this is where you want to be.

P1 (5.8): The first pitch is the same as for Boomer's Story, a simple 5.8 up a corner, a short chimney and some airy moves to a good ledge.

P2 (5.12d): Off the left side of the ledge begins one of the best pitches on the Perch, and one of the best alpine pitches I have ever climbed. Exciting and fun climbing leads to a WILD chimney section and up to a decent rest. Get everything you can back and embark on the crux of the pitch and perhaps the route. Pull through a bulge and into an improbable corner. If you're David Copperfield this is no problem. This pitch ends at the original hanging belay set by the first ascentionists.

P3 (5.10+): Pitch 3 pulls back into the corner and makes its way under an airy roof traverse; pull onto a ledge and follow easy terrain to a giant ledge.

P4 (5.11): Pitch 4 is a gem. This is a perfect right-leaning 5.11 fingers and thin hands crack that finishes with a few surprisingly fun OW moves to the anchor.

P5 (5.12+): The Thorn Bush pitch! Start in a dirty crack out right of the belay. Move back left and towards the bush. From here you can either 'highstep the shit out of it' or bear down on a few small crimps, hike a foot and blast to a good flat ledge. Mantle up and get ready for the next crux. The crack here tends to seam out but opens up just when you need it to, or maybe 6" further than you would like. Figure your way up into the corner and follow it to a roof. Take the roof out right and climb up to a belay.

P6 (5.12-): Pitch 6 starts out with a few Funk Master Flex stemming moves in a blank corner. Move right at a roof and then follow the killer 5.10 fingers and hands to the bivy ledge. The Bivy ledge is one of the coolest hangs on the Perch and a great place to relax and fuel up before the last of the hard climbing.

P7 (5.11): Off the ledge start up a locker steep finger crack, be warned this is a very sharp crack but sooooo good. When the crack thins step right onto the face and up into a thin hand/ring lock crack. Follow that for about 20 feet then step back left when possible. Follow this through a few roofs and past a couple ledges. A short hard flaring OW section leads you to a good stance and the end of the hard climbing.

From this point follow the obvious cracks (5.10) up and right towards the Beckey Tree. From the tree take which ever line you wish to the top. All the climbing at this point is 5.10 or under.

Pitch break down: 5.8, 5.12d, 5.10+, 5.11, 5.12+, 5.12-, 5.11, 5.10, 5.10- (to the Beckey Tree). 3 more pitches of <5.10 to the summit.

Location

Left of the Direct Beckey; same start as Boomer's Story

Protection

Double rack with lot of draws. There are a few fixed pins in the seams where gear is not available. There is only one bolted anchor from the original FA party; all others are natural.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Cavanaugh
Ketchum, ID
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately, I have some bad news to report. I have recently heard that the route Thorn Bush on the Elephants perch has had some or all of its fixed-gear bootied. While I have not been up there recently to check out its status, I would guess that it would make it either extremely difficult/dangerous or impossible to make a ground-up attempt without bringing knife blade/peakers and a hammer. I will be going back up there in mid-august to refix the pitches so that it can once again be free climbed. As a quick reminder for people climbing, if you come across fixed gear such as pitons and nuts that are placed as a safety reason, please do not remove these. They are not booty. This only destroys routes for future parties.
Stay safe and crush.

Ian Cavanaugh Jul 18, 2020
[Hide Comment] Hi Ian, I sent you a message but didn't hear back. What is the status of the pins on this route? It definitely looks like a route I would like to climb while I am in the area. Hopefully more aid climbers don't pilfer the fixed gear used for free climbing protection on this route again. It is pretty lame to have to aid a route just to re-fix gear for free climbing. May 21, 2021
Max Green
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Hi Ian, I'm wondering the same as michalm, did you end up refixing any of those pins? Thanks! Sep 1, 2021
Ian Cavanaugh
Ketchum, ID
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] The route is still in its current state. Never got a chance to get back up to fix it. If anyone is interested I have some pins and peckers that can be fixed. Feel free to reach out to me if interested. Sep 1, 2021