Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 62 total · 3/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun and wacky route that can be finished via either Cherry Picker or The Henchman. Layback or offwidth up to a roof. First thing you'll notice at the roof is that there are no holds. Find a very hidden right hand sidepull and do a deadpoint to hand jam deep in the hole under the lip of the roof. One more hand jam over the lip gets you to your next clip. Above the lip, traverse left then merge with Cherry Picker or the Henchman. The Cherry Picker finish is steeper, harder, but a classic. The Henchman finish is easier but has a slight runnout above the 6th bolt on 5.10a (optional small cam).

The climb had a lot of loose rock that was cleaned off. It still passes some spooky, hollow rock that is actually very solid and doesn't budge, even by mechanical means. Longer draws or slings are needed because the bolts needed to go in the best rock, which wasn't always the straightest line.

Clipping them all with standard draws would probably lead to some pretty horrendous drag. I clipped the two bolts under the first roof medium length (12"), and clipped the next two bolts afterward the first roof long (24").

Location

Line of tan bolts to the left of the chimney.

Protection

10-11 bolts.

Photos

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