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Routes in The Glory Hole

Anonymous Tip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case Dismissed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cherry Picker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Conspicuous Bulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dance With The Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devil's Dominion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Happy Trails S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Headrush S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Henchman, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hibachi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mineshaft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overhung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shot In The Dark T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooky Hollow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tootsie Pop S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wayback Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 53 total · 4/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun and wacky route that can be finished via either Cherry Picker or The Henchman. Layback or offwidth up to a roof. First thing you'll notice at the roof is that there are no holds. Find a very hidden right hand sidepull and do a deadpoint to hand jam deep in the hole under the lip of the roof. One more hand jam over the lip gets you to your next clip. Above the lip, traverse left then merge with Cherry Picker or the Henchman. The Cherry Picker finish is steeper, harder, but a classic. The Henchman finish is easier but has a slight runnout above the 6th bolt on 5.10a (optional small cam).

The climb had a lot of loose rock that was cleaned off. It still passes some spooky, hollow rock that is actually very solid and doesn't budge, even by mechanical means. Longer draws or slings are needed because the bolts needed to go in the best rock, which wasn't always the straightest line.

Clipping them all with standard draws would probably lead to some pretty horrendous drag. I clipped the two bolts under the first roof medium length (12"), and clipped the next two bolts afterward the first roof long (24").

Location

Line of tan bolts to the left of the chimney.

Protection

10-11 bolts.

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