Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 249 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


A novelty climb, Chasing Rainbows climbs a basalt dike that continues underneath Highway 99 to form the Black Dike all the way up the Chief! After locating the dike, you will have to climb some granite to get there, placing gear along the way. Most of the dike is steep with big holds, with a techy move thrown in there. The angle lessens at the top, and protection opportunities decrease as well, a fall up here would be heinous, but unlikely. When you top out, look for anchors on a slab to the left.


From HWY 99 footbridge, head North (Right) on several trails in the forest until you reach the slabs on top of the Malamute, you should see a pond near the logging business here. Drop down the slabs in a gully, and then head left around the base. Keep an eye out for the dike, it starts on a steep hillside.


Single rack to #3 Camelot, make sure you have a .75 & .5 for the dike portion. Slings!


Matt Hoffmann
  5.10d PG13
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10d PG13
Finally got around to ticking this climb off last weekend. It's an interesting climb and worth doing if you are ticking off the top 100s. Different than most Squamish climbs though not a fantastic pitch by any means.

Some useful info for those looking to get on it:

  • Approach and Descent*
Approach isn't too tricky. Park at the pullout across from the chief. On the north side of the parking lot, there is a path going up into the grass. Follow it up and keep trending north until you see the pond/lake. Head down the slabs towards that until you enter the forest then loop around the malamute an head south. Fairly big ledge with trees on it. You'll see the climb "pinky locks". Very distinct 5.7 slanting crack. Chasing rainbows is further along.

Recommended descent is to go back the way you came. Rappel off chasing rainbows and walk out.

  • Recommended Gear*
- One blue C4 and one red C4
- 4 sport draws
- 4 long slings and biners for the bolted anchor (It's a ways back from the ledge)
- Comfort on runouts to the first gear and comfort on runouts to the anchor

  • Beta*

The first bolt is about 10 meters of easy (5.9ish) climbing off the ground. You can get a red and blue C4 in about 7 meters up but if you are confident it probably isn't necessary *just don't fall*

After that is a 8 meter crux section with 4 bolts. Tricky face climbing but treat it like a boulder problem and it isn't too difficult to get through.

After that there is no pro for about 10 meters to the top. The angle eases off so it's pretty easy but again... *Don't fall*. The basalt is slippery so please be careful as a fall would be unpleasant. Aug 14, 2017
Nick Brehm
Cincinnati, OH
  5.10d PG13
Nick Brehm   Cincinnati, OH
  5.10d PG13
Green Alien gives some piece of mind up top. Good placement on the right side of the dyke about 10 feet from the top out. Nov 6, 2017
Thomas Herbert
Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10c/d PG13
Thomas Herbert   Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10c/d PG13
A fun climb that looks more intimidating than it is. 4th bolt is hidden just over the bulge on the right side of the dyke.

The top section doesn't really take too much pro, I put a green BD cam in, it was a bit slimy!! Nov 11, 2017
Tom Gnyra    
Very dirty, like much of this cliff!!! Jun 5, 2018
Steven Stosky
Los Angeles, CA
Steven Stosky   Los Angeles, CA
Contrary to the Squamish Select guidebook, this route is much longer than 30m and CANNOT be easily top roped with a 60m! We weren’t aware of this, and had some shenanigans to make it work - the belayer and climber met at the first piece of pro (around 4m up) , and down climbing dirty ~5.6 terrain was necessary. Wouldn’t recommend.

I’d disagree with the PG-13 rating - there’s quite good pro with the exception of the last 10m, where there is only one obvious placement, however the ‘runout’ climbs at a very friendly 5.5 imo.

Also, perhaps a hold has fallen off between the 3rd and 4th bolt? There are broken spaces on the dyke that look a bit different/newer. If so, it seems like the climb may have gotten harder, as this was definitely the current crux to the climb. In any case, it still goes around 10+ or 11-, the moves just happened to be unobvious and quite puzzling to me. Jul 23, 2018