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Chasing Rainbows
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 12
votes
Routes in Chasing Rainbows
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Blue Steel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chasing Rainbows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Coronary Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Giv’er S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Losing Teeth T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Overlaps S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pinky Locks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Receiving Rainbows S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stuck in Squamish S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,183 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Rhoderick on Jul 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A novelty climb, Chasing Rainbows climbs a basalt dike that continues underneath Highway 99 to form the Black Dike all the way up the Chief! After locating the dike, you will have to climb some granite to get there, placing gear along the way. Most of the dike is steep with big holds, with a techy move thrown in there. The angle lessens at the top, and protection opportunities decrease as well, a fall up here would be heinous, but unlikely. When you top out, look for anchors on a slab to the left.
Location
From HWY 99 footbridge, head North (Right) on several trails in the forest until you reach the slabs on top of the Malamute, you should see a pond near the logging business here. Drop down the slabs in a gully, and then head left around the base. Keep an eye out for the dike, it starts on a steep hillside.
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