Type: Trad, Aid, 1100 ft, 14 pitches, Grade V
FA: Ivan (Eric Lindwaithe), Bill Coe, Geoff Silverman
Page Views: 1,238 total · 68/month
Shared By: Billcoe on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Really really sweet route. Super long, easy, fun, enjoyable, exhausting and mentally taxing aren't usually used in the same sentence. However, if you are doing all 13-14 pitches to the topout (couple can get run together), then it all fits in together. There currently isn't a choice for what this route truly is: spoaid. They have trad, sport or aid but not spoid. Pronounced Spo oid, like in:

Boid (east coast NJ version of "bird")
Toid (east coast version of "turd") and
Woid (east coast version of "word")

Yeah, Spoid. Sport aid. Fun and enjoyable but not a walk up. The commitment factor on this thing is ridiculously low. Like, do a pitch or 6 and rap if you want. Because the pitches from 3 on are steep, with some hard to find hook moves and reachy bolt moves it's still not that easy. There are no places where a blown hook move (yer not blowing any of the hook moves) would get you hurt. The hook moves go away at P6. The local farmers and campers at Pete and Pam's nice little campground and U-Fish (you can see my car parked next to their pond in the photo) are down below watching you so if you drop your cell phone and need to call for help, yelling and waving yer hanky will most likely have it come running. You're in full view of the whole valley.


pending, but a full compending of all you wish to know can currently be found here: IVAN'S WONDERFUL RAPUNZELS TRIP REPORT IN FULL SURROUND SOUND, WITH PICTURES THAT HAVE CIRCLES AND ARROWS ON THE BACK

We'll get it fleshed out, it's new. Ivan has all the details in the link.


2 hooks.


i am looking forward to investigating this route some time. i was in the area last saturday and drove by to take a look and scope it out. definitely an impressive formation, and pretty wild that it is so localized. i thought i saw somebody on top, but not sure. Aug 9, 2017
  5.7+ C1-
  5.7+ C1-
I'd recommend it highly Slim, you should have stopped and hiked up. The folks you saw may have been some jumpers getting ready to jump off up there. It's fairly popular for squirrel suitors and parajumper types as the top can be easily and quickly hiked to from the forest service road on top, or folks can access it from the bottom with a tad more effort. It is but a short hike up through the woods to the base for climbers. The trail is crap but you are not thrashing through brush, it's just a crappy climber type trail.

It's a horrendously easy but ridiculously long aid line with spots of easy free climbing here or there. If you get up there and decide that you can't make it to the top, getting to the base is easy from P6 on down with 2 60 meter ropes. I was doing solo aid on the lower pitches as day trips from PDX and even got home in time for dinner once.

Wingsuit story: One day in 2014 some flagging showed up. We're were all WTF? until I caught this story. It's a shocking article about a fella that jumped off and survived augering in at the base after the boffed 1100 foot fall.


"Portland man critically injured base jumping in Washington

Updated: Oct 07, 2014 12:02 PM PST

A 38-year-old Portland man was critically injured while base jumping at Tower Rock in Lewis County, WA. Emergency crews were called to the scene at 3:20 p.m. Monday. Investigators said three people traveled to Tower Rock, in the Cispus Valley near the Cispus Environmental Center, for the purpose of base jumping. Elevation at the top of the rock is 3,300 feet.

Deputies said two of the jumpers landed safely, but they did not see their friend. Another witness reported seeing the third man hit the rock wall several times before his parachute fully deployed. The man then disappeared into the timber. Deputies said the man's friends hiked up to the base of the mountain where they found him bleeding with multiple fractures to his lower legs. ...." Aug 14, 2017