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Routes in Cenotaph Spire

Center Crack (assumed name) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked (assumed name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fur Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harebell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lest You Be Judged T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: George Bracksieck and Mike Endicott
Page Views: 52 total, 13/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Jul 23, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Starting in the same place as Lest Thou Be Judged, I stepped up, then reached right, over the top of a Jamesia shrub. I shuffled right, around the shrub, and moved up the slightly overhanging rock, placing an insecure #8 Stopper then the smallest C3. I placed the two next-larger sizes of C3 in rapid succession. I made some long reaches in bulging terrain and shuffled right, around another Jamesia. I placed a #3 C4 and climbed past a loose, flat rock held by yet another Jamesia that lurked in the bottom of the chimney. I placed a #0.75 C4 in a pod in a thin crack to the right of the chimney and felt out the crack above.

The crack was difficult and petered out in gathering lichen, well below the summit. I chose, instead, to retreat upward into the chimney, squeezing into its security, while trying to avoid skinning my bare knees. A red C3 was more comforting than kneepads. On the summit, I extended the Harebell chains, so we could toprope the thin crack that is right of the chimney.

Is this really a first ascent? If Haas and Bubb previously claimed FAs of three other equally scroungy routes on this rock (and not this one), then this route must be an FA. No Jamesias were harmed in the exploration of this route; they merely had to endure our advances.

Location

See above description. This climb encounters three bushes.

Protection

See above description.

Photos

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