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Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias)
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: -1 from 0
votes
Routes in Cenotaph Spire
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Center Crack (assumed name) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked (assumed name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fur Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Harebell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lest You Be Judged T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | George Bracksieck and Mike Endicott |
| Page Views: | 65 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Jul 23, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Starting in the same place as Lest Thou Be Judged, I stepped up, then reached right, over the top of a Jamesia shrub. I shuffled right, around the shrub, and moved up the slightly overhanging rock, placing an insecure #8 Stopper then the smallest C3. I placed the two next-larger sizes of C3 in rapid succession. I made some long reaches in bulging terrain and shuffled right, around another Jamesia. I placed a #3 C4 and climbed past a loose, flat rock held by yet another Jamesia that lurked in the bottom of the chimney. I placed a #0.75 C4 in a pod in a thin crack to the right of the chimney and felt out the crack above.
The crack was difficult and petered out in gathering lichen, well below the summit. I chose, instead, to retreat upward into the chimney, squeezing into its security, while trying to avoid skinning my bare knees. A red C3 was more comforting than kneepads. On the summit, I extended the Harebell chains, so we could toprope the thin crack that is right of the chimney.
Is this really a first ascent? If Haas and Bubb previously claimed FAs of three other equally scroungy routes on this rock (and not this one), then this route must be an FA. No Jamesias were harmed in the exploration of this route; they merely had to endure our advances.
The crack was difficult and petered out in gathering lichen, well below the summit. I chose, instead, to retreat upward into the chimney, squeezing into its security, while trying to avoid skinning my bare knees. A red C3 was more comforting than kneepads. On the summit, I extended the Harebell chains, so we could toprope the thin crack that is right of the chimney.
Is this really a first ascent? If Haas and Bubb previously claimed FAs of three other equally scroungy routes on this rock (and not this one), then this route must be an FA. No Jamesias were harmed in the exploration of this route; they merely had to endure our advances.
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