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Leyechen
5.9,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2 from 45
votes
FA: 1st bolted ascent - Mike Lewis, 7.23.17
Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Performance Cli…
> River Wall
Access Issue: Lead Only Area
Details
The Town of Estes Park owns the cliffs. The land including the driveway above the cliff is private property. We have worked very hard to get this cliff open to climbing. Our access is dependent upon the landowners above the cliff not feeling overwhelmed by the climbers, and the Town of Estes feeling like the climbers are respecting those landowners.
1. Please follow all the rules stated on the kiosk at the base of the cliff.
2. Do not scramble above and try to get down to the top of the bolted climbs to set up topropes - this endangers those below and encourages too much traffic on the top of the cliff.
3. Educational, recreational, and commercial groups may want to use the top of the cliff for rappelling. This is okay if NO ONE else is below and you are using the River Wall, not the Amphitheater Wall. Access the top by walking the trail up the hill at the far West end of the River Wall. Do not let your clients, friends, students run around at the top of the cliff in sight of the houses. Keep everyone chill and out of sight of the houses.
4. Try to use quiet communication when people are setting up or using the amphitheater.
Also: climbing on the Amphitheater Wall is off-limits when shows are happening at the amphitheater during the summer - usually a few afternoons and evenings per week. There is a sign placed when the amphitheater is closed or closes early.
Thank you!!!!
Description
Leyechen starts with fun, steep crux moves through the first two bolts. From there, continue up the slab through a small overlap toward the orange, well-featured pillar. Climb 3 bolts up the pillar - if you climb to the left of the bolts, the climbing is easier (5.7) and a little dirty. If you climb right of the upper 3 bolts, the climbing is 5.8 on great rock with fun exposed moves. Both variations end up out on the arete to get to the chains.
Location
10-15 feet left of "
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride," look for the vertical, grayish rock that slabs out after 2 bolts and heads into the corner with the orange pillar above.
Protection
7 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with lower-off hooks.
[Hide Photo] Lodi Siefer toproping Leyechen.
[Hide Photo] Mike Lewis toproping Leyechen to figure out where the bolts should go.
[Hide Photo] A climber pulling the final moves on Leyechen.
[Hide Photo] Toproping Toy Story (high gravity year in 2020).
Barcelona, ES
Lyons, CO
Plan on rappelling off this route. A standard lower will cause some serious rope drag. Aug 1, 2018
Bowling Green, KY