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Leyechen

5.9, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 45 votes
FA: 1st bolted ascent - Mike Lewis, 7.23.17
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Performance Cli… > River Wall
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Description

Leyechen starts with fun, steep crux moves through the first two bolts. From there, continue up the slab through a small overlap toward the orange, well-featured pillar. Climb 3 bolts up the pillar - if you climb to the left of the bolts, the climbing is easier (5.7) and a little dirty. If you climb right of the upper 3 bolts, the climbing is 5.8 on great rock with fun exposed moves. Both variations end up out on the arete to get to the chains.

Location

10-15 feet left of "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride," look for the vertical, grayish rock that slabs out after 2 bolts and heads into the corner with the orange pillar above.

Protection

7 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with lower-off hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lodi Siefer toproping Leyechen.
[Hide Photo] Lodi Siefer toproping Leyechen.
Mike Lewis toproping Leyechen to figure out where the bolts should go.
[Hide Photo] Mike Lewis toproping Leyechen to figure out where the bolts should go.
A climber pulling the final moves on Leyechen.
[Hide Photo] A climber pulling the final moves on Leyechen.
Toproping Toy Story (high gravity year in 2020).
[Hide Photo] Toproping Toy Story (high gravity year in 2020).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Joder
Barcelona, ES
[Hide Comment] About 12 inches to the left and slightly below the level of the 2nd bolt is a flake that I thought was pretty key to getting through the crux. I had a left hand on it. Be aware that this flake flexes and may pop off at some point--surprising the climber and then making the route maybe a bit harder. Sep 11, 2017
Ryan Gunter
Lyons, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I had fun on this route. The start feels sort of 10a-ish maybe, but I would still say 5.9+ as well.

Plan on rappelling off this route. A standard lower will cause some serious rope drag. Aug 1, 2018
Ben Crocker
Bowling Green, KY
 
[Hide Comment] I thought the opening few moves were harder than 5.9. It gets easier and more fun after a few climbs. The big undercling is key. Aug 17, 2021