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Routes in Mount Fryxell (Peak 11270 at head of Paintbrush Canyon)

Leaping Deer Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a WI2 R
Northeast Snowfield and Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a R
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade II
FA: Unknown. Vivien Lee and Peter Lenz climbed it on 7/21/17
Page Views: 154 total, 37/month
Shared By: PeterSLenz on Jul 22, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

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If you stay over night in Paintbrush Canyon, you will need too obtain a permit at Jenny Lake Ranger Station Details

Location

As you view the NE aspect of Mt Fryxell from upper Paintbrush Canyon, you will see an obvious deep couloir. The couloir narrows and steepens 2/3 of the way up the route; this is the crux.

Description

This is the left hand couloir visible in the photo of Mount Fryxell. The upper portion looked like a "leaping deer," from Paintbrush Cyn. It narrows and steepens 2/3 of the way up; this is the crux of the route.
The couloir is predominantly moderate snow, but had a short mixed section, including steep snow, wet rock and a small amount of water ice. We climbed ropeless, and each used two 50 cm traditional ice axes, and crampons. Be prepared to climb easy, but exposed wet rock (class 3-4) while wearing crampons.

Although this is route is only of moderate difficulty, there is some rockfall/avalanche danger, (we witnessed a thunderous snow avalanche just before dusk, elsewhere on the mountain) and it would be difficult to place meaningful protection, or to establish belay anchors. Belaying would also slow you down, and expose you to rockfall danger. It is not a route which is appropriate for inexperienced alpine climbers. If you fall from high on the route, you will probably die. Experienced climbers will find fun, moderate climbing.

Protection

We climbed ropeless, but you might find belay points on the rock, and snow anchors could be used. We climbed with two short curved pick ice axes apiece, and crampons. As noted previously, I think that placing protection and belaying may simply expose you to more danger.

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