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Anonymous Tip

5.11c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California > Northwest Calif… > Land Of The Lost > Glory Hole

Description

A tricky sequence around the second bolt lead to great jugs before a crux with two fixed draws. The fixed draws ensure solid clipping stances and make sure the bolts are where they need to be to keep the rope running clean. The crux sequence is criptic; relaxing when you've figured it out but frustrating when you haven't. The crux falls are all air and on fixed draws, so get on it. After the crux, you can rest on a the tip of a big rock protruding out from the wall. The remaining 40' of 5.9-5.10a is no gimmie. This route is tricky, but definitely less weird that Mineshaft. Depending on your climbing style, you may find the grades reversed.

Protection

11 bolts, two are fixed draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Samuel Trimboli cranking through Anonymous Tip
[Hide Photo] Samuel Trimboli cranking through Anonymous Tip
Samuel Trimboli just before the crux
[Hide Photo] Samuel Trimboli just before the crux
The first half of the route climbs out of this sweet cave with really unique holds. It's hard to come by this kind of rock.
[Hide Photo] The first half of the route climbs out of this sweet cave with really unique holds. It's hard to come by this kind of rock.
Steep! The crux has fixed draws, and the falls are all air, so give it a try!
[Hide Photo] Steep! The crux has fixed draws, and the falls are all air, so give it a try!
Sitting on the Anonymous Tip after the crux
[Hide Photo] Sitting on the Anonymous Tip after the crux
Anonymous Tip
[Hide Photo] Anonymous Tip
Anonymous Tip
[Hide Photo] Anonymous Tip

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Four stars for the bottom half. The upper half is fun and more like two stars... will be even better when it cleans up with more traffic. Regardless, sticking to the cleaner holds is pretty easy. Jun 5, 2018
Samuel Trimboli
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] The bottom is excellent. The top is super fun 5.8-and steep at that! Aug 7, 2018