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Art of War

5.10d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Island > Quadra Island > Chinese Mountains > S Peak Crags > Great Wall Complex > E Wall

Description

This is a really varied route with a quick, early crux and then sustained interest throughout the rest of the climb. Start up an obvious short, flat-looking wall with a difficult 10d boulder move to get established on the rock. Work up a corner system and then at bolt 4 trend diagonally left through more short corners. Keep moving up on a strong diagonal-left line to a rest. Then climb direct past detached blocks to a large flake. Follow the flake up to a steep layback to finish.

Location

Starts at the right side of the East Wall just where the access path comes out of the forest to the open base ledge. Descent is usually by rappel.

Protection

all bolts