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Routes in Pumphouse

Backroad Ballet S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Forged In Hell S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forged in Heels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Neon Highway S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Welcome to the Pumphouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Tiffany Bertelsen, Jon Mavko, Kemper Brightman - 2017
Page Views: 531 total · 37/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 20, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

All good things are worth waiting for. This route was no exception.

After some on and off cleaning efforts over a year I finally finished bolting this climb in the spring of 2017. Initially I thought it would pair nicely with the other low to mid 12s of the area and be of similar difficulty, but during the first runs up the route it became apparent it was much harder.

Neon Highway gets real right off the ground with a stout and amazing boulder problem from bolts one to three. Long moves on sloping rails plus a mini jump deposit you at the base of a giant flake. Rest up here because difficulties resume as soon as you leave the flake. Grab amazing sculpted and slippery crimps and faint arete holds as the wall steepens. If you can make some more long and accurate moves, get fancy with your heels, and manage the long pulls to holds over the lip of the wall.......... you will clip the chains of a fine new addition to the Pumphouse.

This route is amazing and should not be missed.

Location

In between Backroad Ballet and Forged in Hell.

Protection

8 bolts to chains with lower-offs

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13b
I couldn't be happier with this route. There are hidden gems waiting to found right next to old classics. Thanks to all of the friends who came out to belay, hang out, take photos, and be generally amazing climbing partners and humans. Jul 20, 2017
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Strong work, Luke! You are on a rampage. Jul 20, 2017
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
Nice work Luke! This route going down is a definite "highlight" of the season so far. Jul 20, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Nice going Luke, that face has been begging for a route for a long time! Jul 21, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
This route joins Forged In Hell at the big flake rest. Apr 13, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13b
This route does NOT "join" Forged in Hell. The routes come near one another at the flake. Also, for what it's worth, whenever I have climbed Forged in Hell I never end up on that flake. I skirt right of it completely. Apr 14, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Been doing Forged... for years and it joins Forged. You may avoid the flake when you do Forged but that is because you are a beast and haven't begun to get pumped when you get there. Everyone else works left to the flake as it was originally climbed. Apr 16, 2018
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
What's a hold between friends? Apr 16, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13b
Indeed. I just want someone to do the second ascent. Literally seconds ago I was petitioning Jon to get out there and do it. Apr 16, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Sharing a rest doesn't take away from either route. Looks cool. I was just trying to get Jesse on it. Probably will if he gets the Mike Head route up to the right. Apr 16, 2018

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