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Russian Ties

5.10 R, Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Michael Goodhue, Vincent Keller, July 2017?, Nigel Gregory and David Irwin, 2002?
Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Aiguille de Fleur
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Description

Russian Ties has 6 pitches of climbing typified by thin laybacks, exciting traverses, and face climbing. There is even a bit of offwidth thrown in for good measure!

From David Irwin: here's the route description that Nigel Gregory and I wrote in 2002. I think it follows most of the Russian Ties line, but possibly we started to the right.

This route starts 100 feet up the obvious ramp crossing the right side of the face. Start just left of an obvious, wet, black streak, and climb 5 pitches up the face to an obvious weakness in the overhangs, around 3/4 height.

P1. .9, 100 feet. Climb face and crack to a left slanting crack - step right and pull through the (an) over hang to a ledge.

P2. .10, 130 feet. Step left to a right facing corner with a wide crack. Climb this and step left to a Left facing hand crack and climb this to  broken ledges. Belay on the right.

P3. .10*, 120 feet (?). Step right round a corner to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this to its top (wide), and belay on blocks, well below the overhang. * = My notes are faded on the length and difficulty of this pitch.

P4.  .10c, 140 feet. Climb up and left to a thin traverse, and traverse left to the base of a flake leading the the weakness in the overhangs ~ 60 feet. Climb the flake to awkward moves right, then go directly up through the weakness in the overhang to a ledge at the leftmost end of the overhang.

P5. 10c, 150 feet. Climb cracks for 20 feet to a foot traverse right. Climb grassy corners and ledges to an easy route...(my notes say this last pitch may connect with the East face route (?)).

Location

This route goes up the center of the east face of Aiguille de Fleur.

Protection

Doubles. We also took a #3 and a #4. You could probably get by without the #4.

There is no fixed gear, and none is needed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of my favorite pitches.
[Hide Photo] One of my favorite pitches.
Joining Michael at one of the belays.
[Hide Photo] Joining Michael at one of the belays.
Coming up the first-ish pitch.
[Hide Photo] Coming up the first-ish pitch.
Russian Ties.
[Hide Photo] Russian Ties.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] FYI... Nigel Gregory and I did the same line to top with minor variations in 2002. Mar 13, 2022
Vincent K
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] David, that's awesome! What did you think of it? Can you share any photos? Apr 16, 2022
[Hide Comment] Hi there,

I just saw this comment; I can share the topo with anyone that wants it. I just dug it out....I don't have any photos, but perhaps Nigel does.... I thought the route was stellar, what I remember is the cracks down low were a little dirty, but the 4th pitch climbed up to a weakness in the roofs, pretty sure where the Russian Ties route goes, it had amazing exposure but was pretty featured....

I think I mentioned this before, Tom Coleman and I did the prominent J crack in the middle of the face ~ 2006. I think if one traverses climber's left from our high point, to another crack system, one could figure out a way to complete this route to the top....I thought I would get back, but it's been over 15 years! Nov 18, 2022