Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 40.2151, -105.7035
FA: Michael Goodhue, Vincent Keller, July 2017?, Nigel Gregory and David Irwin, 2002?
Page Views: 1,570 total · 15/month
Shared By: Vincent K on Jul 19, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Russian Ties has 6 pitches of climbing typified by thin laybacks, exciting traverses, and face climbing. There is even a bit of offwidth thrown in for good measure!

From David Irwin: here's the route description that Nigel Gregory and I wrote in 2002. I think it follows most of the Russian Ties line, but possibly we started to the right.

This route starts 100 feet up the obvious ramp crossing the right side of the face. Start just left of an obvious, wet, black streak, and climb 5 pitches up the face to an obvious weakness in the overhangs, around 3/4 height.

P1. .9, 100 feet. Climb face and crack to a left slanting crack - step right and pull through the (an) over hang to a ledge.

P2. .10, 130 feet. Step left to a right facing corner with a wide crack. Climb this and step left to a Left facing hand crack and climb this to  broken ledges. Belay on the right.

P3. .10*, 120 feet (?). Step right round a corner to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this to its top (wide), and belay on blocks, well below the overhang. * = My notes are faded on the length and difficulty of this pitch.

P4.  .10c, 140 feet. Climb up and left to a thin traverse, and traverse left to the base of a flake leading the the weakness in the overhangs ~ 60 feet. Climb the flake to awkward moves right, then go directly up through the weakness in the overhang to a ledge at the leftmost end of the overhang.

P5. 10c, 150 feet. Climb cracks for 20 feet to a foot traverse right. Climb grassy corners and ledges to an easy route...(my notes say this last pitch may connect with the East face route (?)).

Location Suggest change

This route goes up the center of the east face of Aiguille de Fleur.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles. We also took a #3 and a #4. You could probably get by without the #4.

There is no fixed gear, and none is needed.

Photos

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