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Dance With The Devil

5.12d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California > Northwest Calif… > Land Of The Lost > Glory Hole

Description

This is one sweet route. Once you figure out the sequences, you won't forget it! It begins with The Henchman's gear start and continues up and left through an incredible overhang (V7+) and then finishes with 40' of 5.8-5.9 with a little wake-up just before the anchors. Very tricky beta, tenuous yet delicate power moves, did I mention tricky beta? If it feels impossible just keep working on those sequences .

The roof has fixed draws placed close enough to keep you plenty safe. There is a direct, harder start below named "Devil's Dominion."

Location

Starts at the left end of the downed log.

Protection

Gear .2-.75, four fixed draws, 5-6 draws
There should be a semi-fixed #1 nut for convenience.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Big moves once the pump has already begun, best to go at this one fresh.
[Hide Photo] Big moves once the pump has already begun, best to go at this one fresh.
Dance With The Devil heads up the steep steep prow in the center.
[Hide Photo] Dance With The Devil heads up the steep steep prow in the center.
Sweeeeeeet moves.
[Hide Photo] Sweeeeeeet moves.
Starting up the Henchman gear start with the roof looming above
[Hide Photo] Starting up the Henchman gear start with the roof looming above

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Can someone please get the second ascent of this beast and help give me a grade? May 13, 2019