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Routes in The Glory Hole

Anonymous Tip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case Dismissed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cherry Picker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Conspicuous Bulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dance With The Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devil's Dominion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Happy Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Headrush S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Henchman, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hibachi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mineshaft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overhung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shot In The Dark T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooky Hollow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tootsie Pop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wayback Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 132 total · 10/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is one sweet route. Once you figure out the sequences, you won't forget it! It begins with The Henchman's gear start and continues up and left through an incredible overhang (V7+) and then finishes with 40' of 5.8-5.9 with a little wake-up just before the anchors. Very tricky beta, tenuous yet delicate power moves, did I mention tricky beta? If it feels impossible just keep working on those sequences .

The roof has fixed draws placed close enough to keep you plenty safe. There is a direct, harder start below named "Devil's Dominion."

Location

Starts at the left end of the downed log.

Protection

Gear .2-.75, four fixed draws, 5-6 draws
There should be a semi-fixed #1 nut for convenience.

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