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Routes in The Glory Hole

Anonymous Tip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case Dismissed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cherry Picker S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Conspicuous Bulge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dance With The Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy Trails S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Henchman, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hibachi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mineshaft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overhung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spooky Hollow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tootsie Pop S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wayback Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 97 total · 9/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 18, 2017
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

This is one sweet route especially when you figure out the memorable sequences. It begins with The Henchman's gear start and continues up an incredible yet frustrating roof (V7) and then finishes with 40' of fun 5.8-5.9 with a little wake-up just before the anchors. Very tricky beta, tenuous yet delicate power moves, did I mention hard beta? If it feels horrible, keep working on that beta.

The roof has fixed draws placed close enough to keep you from swinging into the ledge below. I've bolted a direct, harder start below and named it "Devil's Dominion." It is still a project for now, but will be completed soon.

Location [Edit]

Starts at the left end of the downed log.

Protection [Edit]

Gear .2-.75, four fixed draws, 5-6 draws
There should be a semi-fixed #1 nut for convenience.



More About Dance With The Devil