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Mineshaft

5.11b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 7 votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp
California > Northwest Calif… > Land Of The Lost > Glory Hole

Description

This thing is weird! Don’t expect any semblance of “normal” climbing.

Stemming turns weird as the slab dihedral steepens into a roof dihedral. Tricky right arm stemming and pushing moves are required to exit the roof. Your ability to think in 3D with dictate how long you spend in the roof. Get creative!

After the first roof, there is a good rest followed by a second roof out right. Going left looks easier, but is harder and risks a ledge fall. Go right, straight above your bolt. Stem and a massive jug awaits you above the roof. The route finishes with 40' of moderate climbing.

If you pay attention to the bolt line, and extend certain clips appropriately (12" draws on some, and 24" slings on others), the rope will run nearly perfectly straight with no rope drag. I haven't tested clipping them all with standard draws, but I imagine it would be a nightmare.

Location

Nearest route to the trunk of the live tree.

Protection

11 clips, three are fixed draws now. The two bolts just after the first two fixed draws must be clipped with a sling.
Double chain anchor, clip the correct chains that equalize for this route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taylor exploring to find a way to escape the first roof. It's no gimmie!
[Hide Photo] Taylor exploring to find a way to escape the first roof. It's no gimmie!
Paul lowering off the Mineshaft after successfully navigating the funktastic roof exits.
[Hide Photo] Paul lowering off the Mineshaft after successfully navigating the funktastic roof exits.
Go right at the second roof, straight up from the bolt. It looks incredibly improbable but it is safer, easier, and a whole lot more fun!
[Hide Photo] Go right at the second roof, straight up from the bolt. It looks incredibly improbable but it is safer, easier, and a whole lot more fun!
Matt Crocket setting up for the first roof exit and heading up towards the second roof 8' above him.
[Hide Photo] Matt Crocket setting up for the first roof exit and heading up towards the second roof 8' above him.
Funky fun exit from the roof on Mineshaft
[Hide Photo] Funky fun exit from the roof on Mineshaft
Trevor clipping the fourth bolt from the hidden jug. This clip can feel committing if you forget how to stem. Trevor breezed it.
[Hide Photo] Trevor clipping the fourth bolt from the hidden jug. This clip can feel committing if you forget how to stem. Trevor breezed it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I changed up my sequence through the crux a few days ago and did a different sequence with a good pinch up above in the roof. It wasn't any easier than the tunnel-through beta, but would be a good alternative for people who aren't used to such 3D climbing. Jul 31, 2018
Samuel Trimboli
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Killer rock. Amazing movement. Extremely unique. Aug 7, 2018