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Routes in Memorial Wall

8 a.m. Hiccup (Fist Pump) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bromancing the Stone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bucking the Sun S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drop the Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
O.P.D (Official Panty Dropper) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seamingly Binary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sindarete S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweet Thunder S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 11/13/16
Page Views: 167 total, 33/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This long crack system cleaves through a nice panel of orange stone amidst the somewhat jumbled "no man's land" between the Memorial and West End Walls. It offers up a lot of mileage with good variety of movement with an emphasis on handjams. I did a lot of trundling and cleaning on this thing, but there are several chockstones and welded flakes/blocks that one must pass is a couple sections. Everything that remains has held strong against much prying and hammering. For those comfortable with a bit of blocky rock (think Waterfall), this is a great route for the grade!

The line starts from very near the bottom of the cliff, on a small, triangular stance about 10' up, just right of the crack system. The belay takes red C3 sized gear.

Weave up splitter hands through big blocks. Place some deep pro (sling long) at the base of a right-leaning, bulging slot and surmount this staying on the outside of the slot utilizing some handy jug rails. Hands, fingers, and face holds lead to a panel of hollow flakes to the right of the crack (all pried on). Shortly above is the distinct crux of the route, where the crack pinches out, necessitating a big move or some mega stemming/shenanigans to hit a fingerlock and tight hands above to the top of the pillar. Atop the pillar, the rock becomes the cinder-coated variety that is common on most Memorial Wall topouts (Sindarete). Dance around a big block perched on the ledge, and head up steep hands/cups to a final, steep, left-facing corner. Jam up the good crack in the corner and the flake on the right wall, until you pull right onto the apex of this flake, which is very thin, but again held up against the prybar. From the tombstone flake, the route culminates in a wild exit on steep cinder blobs and jugs.

Named after my trusty piton hammer (inherited from my father and having served me for 15 years) became unclipped and plunged into the canyon, breaking the wooden handle.

Location

From the parking by the Hobel memorial, head down the rim (west). There is a giant, dead ponderosa near the parking, then another giant, live ponderosa a short ways west, then two mid-size ponderosas in a row. Rap off of a small (5" diameter) pine a bit past these, or run the rope back to bigger trees behind the small one. The topout is on a highpoint, just before the rim dips down in a trough.

Protection

In BD sizes:
(2X) red C3, .3, .4
(3X) .5-2
(2X) 3
medium-large stoppers
slings

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Awesome and memorable climbing with many elements on this one. Everything seemed solid enough to climb on to me. Consistent with two defined cruxes. Very dramatic and exposed finish. Trevor did a professional job with the cleaning and prepping. Oct 22, 2017
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Rad line! You have to climb on this one from the bottom to the top and it's a long one!

Although there are numerous sketchy looking features on the route I didn't encounter any holds that were loose or less than bomber. The movement is great all the way and varied. Excellent gear. No gimme at 11-.

Trevor's rack beta is dead on. I didn't place anything smaller than red C3 and if you don't have tripples in the sizes he gives be prepared for runnouts. Take lots of slings, I had 13 and wanted more. Sling as much as possible or the top gets draggy.

Thanks for the hard work on this one Trevor! I can tell you put a lot of care and labor into cleaning this beast. A real gem. Oct 9, 2017