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> Sycamore Canyon
> Volunteer Canyo…
> S Side
> 6. Memorial Wall
Drop the Hammer
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 27
votes
Routes in 6. Memorial Wall
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Baby Dinosaur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bromancing the Stone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bucking the Sun S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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CloudN9ne T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drop the Hammer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Endless Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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No Man's Land T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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O.P.D T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Parity Prow, The T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Seamingly Binary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sweet Thunder S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sweet Thunder Extension S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Transwestern Pump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman 11/13/16 |
| Page Views: | 1,588 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access Alert
Details
"Drop the Hammer on Memorial Wall is currently under closure for peregrine nesting season.
Eagles, falcons, hawks, and migratory birds build nests in shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, often returning to the same site year after year. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically April through early August).
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
Eagles, falcons, hawks, and migratory birds build nests in shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, often returning to the same site year after year. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically April through early August).
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
Description
This long crack system cleaves through a nice panel of orange stone amidst the somewhat jumbled "no man's land" between the Memorial and West End Walls. It offers up a lot of mileage with good variety of movement with an emphasis on handjams. I did a lot of trundling and cleaning on this thing, but there are several chockstones and welded flakes/blocks that one must pass is a couple sections. Everything that remains has held strong against much prying and hammering. For those comfortable with a bit of blocky rock (think Waterfall), this is a great route for the grade!
The line starts from very near the bottom of the cliff, on a small, triangular stance about 10' up, just right of the crack system. The belay takes red C3 sized gear.
Weave up splitter hands through big blocks. Place some deep pro (sling long) at the base of a right-leaning, bulging slot and surmount this staying on the outside of the slot utilizing some handy jug rails. Hands, fingers, and face holds lead to a panel of hollow flakes to the right of the crack (all pried on). Shortly above is the distinct crux of the route, where the crack pinches out, necessitating a big move or some mega stemming/shenanigans to hit a fingerlock and tight hands above to the top of the pillar. Atop the pillar, the rock becomes the cinder-coated variety that is common on most Memorial Wall topouts (Sindarete). Dance around a big block perched on the ledge, and head up steep hands/cups to a final, steep, left-facing corner. Jam up the good crack in the corner and the flake on the right wall, until you pull right onto the apex of this flake, which is very thin, but again held up against the prybar. From the tombstone flake, the route culminates in a wild exit on steep cinder blobs and jugs.
Named after my trusty piton hammer (inherited from my father and having served me for 15 years) became unclipped and plunged into the canyon, breaking the wooden handle.
The line starts from very near the bottom of the cliff, on a small, triangular stance about 10' up, just right of the crack system. The belay takes red C3 sized gear.
Weave up splitter hands through big blocks. Place some deep pro (sling long) at the base of a right-leaning, bulging slot and surmount this staying on the outside of the slot utilizing some handy jug rails. Hands, fingers, and face holds lead to a panel of hollow flakes to the right of the crack (all pried on). Shortly above is the distinct crux of the route, where the crack pinches out, necessitating a big move or some mega stemming/shenanigans to hit a fingerlock and tight hands above to the top of the pillar. Atop the pillar, the rock becomes the cinder-coated variety that is common on most Memorial Wall topouts (Sindarete). Dance around a big block perched on the ledge, and head up steep hands/cups to a final, steep, left-facing corner. Jam up the good crack in the corner and the flake on the right wall, until you pull right onto the apex of this flake, which is very thin, but again held up against the prybar. From the tombstone flake, the route culminates in a wild exit on steep cinder blobs and jugs.
Named after my trusty piton hammer (inherited from my father and having served me for 15 years) became unclipped and plunged into the canyon, breaking the wooden handle.
Location
From the Hobel memorial, head down the rim (west). There is a large, live ponderosa a short ways west, then two mid-size ponderosas in a row. Rap off of a smaller (8” diameter) pine a bit past these, or run the rope back to bigger trees behind the small one. The topout is on a highpoint, just before the rim dips down in a trough.
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