[Hide Comment] This is a quality climb for those looking for the grade or easier. Pitches were long - we simulclimbed just a bit on the first (~240' to belay at the start of the jog left) and the second (~220' to get to a better belay spot). Done that way, we did it in 3 pitches (had ~30' of traverse before the vertical (and mostly easy) vertical corner finish. Just be aware of your second and place enough gear to make them happy.
For the most part, lots of good pro opportunities.
Honestly not sure if we did the 5.5 or the 5.7..... I think it was 5.7; but it was only a move or two and led to a nice, clean vertical corner that led to the top.
On the descent, we walked east (past the North Books) and dropped down on a big ledge with trees, angled down a slab (back west), but got hung up on ledge with a steep 15' section below. We threaded a sling & rapped, but maybe going straight down from the ledge is better?
10-15 minute approach was nice (one of the shorter approaches in TM); but it was closer to an hour to get back to our packs. Aug 13, 2018

[Hide Comment] The annotated photo and Karl's remarks are right on! Note on the photo that the 5.5 option simply traverses all the way out from underneath the left side of the roof. We avoided the 5.7 crack as it looked quite dirty and actually consisted of very large loose blocks somehow wedged together.

And that is my only gripe about the route -- you will inevitably end up placing pro in less-than-quality rock as you traverse underneath the roof on P2 especially. There is lichen on the slabs and dirt in the cracks. P1 and the P4 exit to the top are essentially 4th class rambling. P2 traversing left is the exciting pitch and allows one to get their tuolumne knob fix.

All that said it is a pretty fun climb at an easy grade and good way to avoid the crowds. Sep 9, 2019

[Hide Comment] As for descent stuff -- best to bring everything with you on the climb. It is very easy to get down the slabs to the east -- and, if you park nearer to Daff Dome, they will lead straight to the car.

This of course makes the approach longer but nice to walk off really fast. Sep 9, 2019

[Hide Comment] There is a giant, loose, coffin-ish sized block right after the first belay in the corner. It's shifted out of position and is overhanging the route. This has changed between last fall and today. I'd recommend not touching it and climbing the easy slab below.

Heads up to new 5.5/7 leaders: in general there is a good pro to be found on the route but there is also a lot of bad rock that I wouldn't trust. In particular this was true on the traverse and parts of the 5.5 finish. For me this meant some slightly run out, easy slab climbing. If you're used to being able to stick a (trustworthy) cam in wherever you want this isn't the route for you.

Also, a lot of rodent poop.... Jul 26, 2020

[Hide Comment] The 5.7 variation had 2 short but tough 5.7+ crack or lieback overhangs to get over the way I went. First one was maybe 5.7 second one felt definitely 5.8 to me. Looks like this winter may have cleaned this route up because it wasn’t very dirty at all and no rodent poop. A small amount of pretty green plants and moss but none in the way of the climb. Snow still halfway up the first pitch but you can climb higher cracks on the wall to get around it. Aug 15, 2023