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Routes in Lamb Dome

Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jog Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Left North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Shout S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Steve Williams, Bob Summer 1970
Page Views: 312 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ed Henicle on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A Tuolumne moderate multi-pitch with a short approach, and great top out. The climb follows a very large left facing corner to a headwall. There are 2 possible escapes - the first is 5.7, the other 5.5.

P1 - Mostly 4th class 200ft

P2 - Follow head wall left 5.5, 200 ft

P3 - Continue left to 5.7 escape, ~80 ft, or continue to end of headwall, 5.5, 170 ft

P4 - Follow to top 5.5, 120 ft

Descend the gully climbers left of North Books or go around east end of dome

Location

About 400 ft right of Left Crack 5.8 PG/R (a crack that runs the entire North Face of Lamb)

Protection

Pro to 3", optional 4"

Photos

Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
  5.7
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
  5.7
This is a quality climb for those looking for the grade or easier. Pitches were long - we simulclimbed just a bit on the first (~240' to belay at the start of the jog left) and the second (~220' to get to a better belay spot). Done that way, we did it in 3 pitches (had ~30' of traverse before the vertical (and mostly easy) vertical corner finish. Just be aware of your second and place enough gear to make them happy.
For the most part, lots of good pro opportunities.
Honestly not sure if we did the 5.5 or the 5.7..... I think it was 5.7; but it was only a move or two and led to a nice, clean vertical corner that led to the top.
On the descent, we walked east (past the North Books) and dropped down on a big ledge with trees, angled down a slab (back west), but got hung up on ledge with a steep 15' section below. We threaded a sling & rapped, but maybe going straight down from the ledge is better?
10-15 minute approach was nice (one of the shorter approaches in TM); but it was closer to an hour to get back to our packs. Aug 13, 2018

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