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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carnwennan Arete S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surviving The Times T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 9/27/15
Page Views: 71 total · 5/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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The morning star was Medieval weapon, a spiked mace of sorts.

This shares the belay ledge and 2 bolt anchor with Two Handed Flail. Jugs lead to a stance below dual seam/shallow corners. Stem up these using occasional face features and locks. When the seams diverge, head left up some great fingerlocks onto a tenuous, steep slab/ramp to a ledge and an easier finish.

Although unfortunately short, the rock is great on this, and the pro is as well until it gets a bit spicy through the ramp section.


In the black, water-stained rock between Bertilak and Green Knight. Use Darren's beta to locate the top of Bertilak. Morning Star tops out about 40' left (west) of the Bertilak pillar. Rap off of assorted short juniper/pine.


In BD sizes:
(2X) .2, .3
(1X) .4-.75
small stoppers
2 bolt belay anchor at start



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