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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 9/27/15
Page Views: 43 total, 10/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The morning star was Medieval weapon, a spiked mace of sorts.

This shares the belay ledge and 2 bolt anchor with Two Handed Flail. Jugs lead to a stance below dual seam/shallow corners. Stem up these using occasional face features and locks. When the seams diverge, head left up some great fingerlocks onto a tenuous, steep slab/ramp to a ledge and an easier finish.

Although unfortunately short, the rock is great on this, and the pro is as well until it gets a bit spicy through the ramp section.

Location

In the black, water-stained rock between Bertilak and Green Knight. Use Darren's beta to locate the top of Bertilak. Morning Star tops out about 40' left (west) of the Bertilak pillar. Rap off of assorted short juniper/pine.

Protection

In BD sizes:
(2X) .2, .3
(1X) .4-.75
small stoppers
2 bolt belay anchor at start

Photos

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