Naked and Afraid
5.10a/b,
Sport, TR, 25 ft (8 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 41
votes
FA: Jim Thornburg and Kim Pfabe
California
> San Francisco B…
> Marin/Northwest…
> Mickey's Beach
> Peeper's Rock
Description
The crux of this climb is at the very beginning. From the adjacent boulder, grab the left-facing sidepull, find a good right hand and then immediately pull through an overhang to get onto Peeper's Rock. A left heel hook can help. From this opening move it's about 15 feet down to the ground/tide. Don't look down if the thought of that fall scares you.
The main face above the first bolt is much easier, until an interesting move or two between the last bolt and the anchor. If you're stuck, look to the right of the last bolt to find better hands.
The moves off the deck are the fun/hard part - rope or otherwise, it's a little invigorating to step of a ledge and onto an overhang above a treacherous fall.
One can start this route from the sand up the cave below, but this adds a V6 bouldering problem (that is very difficult to protect) before the main start of the climb.
Location
The bolts are visible from the base area on the north side of the Main rock. The climb is just above/left of a pretty impressive overhang on the south side of peepers rock. Stays dry (most) all the time due to its elevated start point but the belayer may get splashed by surf. Rappel ring at the top
Protection
3 newish glue-in bolts to a two bolt anchor with a rap ring. This route previously had OLD bolts that were slowly rusting away.
A stick clip is strongly recommended to clip the first bolt before leading this climb, or a person taller than 6'3" might be able to reach it by hand. Without pre-clipping the first bolt this climb is rated R, given that the start is the crux and sits above a nasty 15-foot fall to a rocky landing.
You can also easily set up a top rope after doing the (stiff) 5.9 on the East Face, Peeping Tom.
[Hide Photo] Stepping onto the wall
[Hide Photo] I wouldn't lead this one unless you can clip the 1st bolt. The start is dicey, but mellows out once you get your heel on the rock. As of June 2020 hardware looks good. Marking the bolts from memory…
[Hide Photo] For those that are shorter and can't step out to the route, it can be helpful to stick-clip a loop on the first bolt to help pull yourself onto the wall (see top right of photo)
[Hide Photo] For those that are shorter and can't step out to the route, it can be helpful to stick-clip a loop on the first bolt to help pull yourself onto the wall (see top right of photo)