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Routes in The Schoolyard

Adigha S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight Days S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Grand Avenue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Habibi's Pony Resort S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MK S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleeping But Not Dreaming S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.11 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
unknown S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tambi & Daiva Katieb
Page Views: 207 total · 17/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Jul 16, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is currently the second furthest right bolted line at the Schoolyard. Begin up a left facing dihedral for 3 bolts and then traverse right to an enjoyable steep, technical face.

Watch the pack rat poo near the third bolt. Moreover, a long draw or runner at the third bolt will reduce rope drag as you traverse right.

Protection

Draws. 7-8ish?

Photos

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Some idiot chopped the 5th bolt - very difficult clip - in fact, the clip is now the crux - 30 foot fall potential for missing-stupid clip stance - no worries - I'm fixing it soon. Daniel Mannix Jun 20, 2018
TKeagle
Eagle, CO
TKeagle   Eagle, CO
Send me a picture of the chopped bolt, and I’ll replace it - don’t need you deciding where that bolt should be placed if it was even chopped - sounds like you couldn’t figure out the “stupid clip stance” ... this ain’t the gym, and the quality of rock to pull on is different than what passes muster for a bolt.

Sounds like you’ve been climbing for a while - didn’t anyone teach you not to retro bolt someone else’s route? I encourage you to give it one a “junk” status and never return, but please don’t be a dick and lower the challenge to what you deem as acceptable. BTW - YOU'RE WELCOME. Jun 21, 2018
It's a great route, but with the 5th bolt chopped - and it obviously is - a bad job of chopping I might add - it's not as the first ascent party left it - unless it was them who chopped. Whoever ruined the route is fair to call an idiot - they changed the climb, not me - I would just replace the bolt in its original position. Have you done the route? Dan Mannix 303-720-8957. PS--The name is Dan to you--not "dick"--watch your tongue lad or I'll wash your mouth with soap... Jun 21, 2018
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Interesting stemming/crack climbing to the 3rd bolt. Clipped the long draw and traversed under the 4th. Unclipped the 3rd to lessen the drag. Balancy, techie climbing to the top. Fun route. Jul 9, 2018

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