Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Central Gully Left

Beautiful Possibilities T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Fleece T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paladin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pedro T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Squeakeasy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Greg Child, Andrew Thompson
Page Views: 115 total, 22/month
Shared By: Phil Schuld on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If I remember correctly, the Mentz/Tempest guide describes the crux of Paladin as "vicious" and I'd have a hard time arguing with that. While the crux is pretty brief, it is exciting, and the surrounding moves are excellent and not easy enough to be trivial.

Scramble up to some good, if small, gear and make an awkward move into a great stance below the crux. Nest a couple pieces and go for broke on the horrendously shallow crack/seam feature using your jamming skills or layback prowess. Placing gear, breathing, or maintaining any poise is very difficult in this section. Eek your way to the obvious pod and slam in a widget (phew!). Savor the upper corner on equally excellent, but easier climbing and top out.

This is a great one to do in the evening. Midday sun will assuredly make the hard, insecure crux even harder and more insecure.

Location

The next obvious shield of orange rock a couple minutes right of the Pebbles/Bam-Bam pinnacle. If you reach the Die-Loaded area, you've gone a hair too far.

Protection

Mostly small cams and nuts. Purple metolius to red camalot. No fixed anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments