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Routes in Trail Lake Pinnacle AKA Goliath Spire

Behemoth T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Larsen Aid Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1+
Mini Moses S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spring Fever S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technicality S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tourist Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Wide One, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YTP Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Bolted by Trevor and Eddie Bowman 5-18-02
Page Views: 282 total · 38/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Private Property Details

Location

On the northeast corner of the pinnacle. The first bolt is on the lichen-covered slab just west of the obvious sub-pinnacle.

Description

Can't describe it better than the first ascensionist: "a decent route up a great little desert tower transplanted to Wyoming, complete with nearby prickly pear and petroglyphs for authentic desert ambiance."

Runout but easy between the 1st and 2nd bolts and between the 4th bolt and the summit (could protect with a few small cams but I found it unnecessary). Starts with a lichen-covered slab, then the crux is the steep and fun arete/face between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I believe this is the easiest route to the summit. Thanks to the FA party for putting it up! The summit register calls it Like Father, Like Son, but see comment below for more info.

Protection

4 bomber Fixe 22kn bolts to a 2 bolt summit anchor with chains. 4 draws sufficient, add a few small pieces if you want to avoid mild runouts on easy terrain.

Photos

Nice climb, but that was first freed back in the summer of '98 and potentially as early as mid-80s. I lived in the valley for many years at Trail Lake Ranch and climbed a lot of routes there that were passed on to me by older climbers including Jamie Walker who had been on the summit of that tower in '83 or '84. Please do no assume things are FAs just because they're not online. A lot of Wyoming rock was climbed before the internet existed.

We all appreciate the desire to climb and in Torrey Valley especially as it is so unique, but please research before posting! Jan 10, 2018
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Thanks Eli for posting this up, it's about time it was on the internet. I remember this was a decent route up a great little desert tower transplanted to Wyoming, complete with nearby prickly pear and petroglyphs for authentic desert ambiance. I'm sure it has cleaned up a good bit in the 15 years since its establishment. I've actually bumped into a few folks over the years who have climbed it, which I always am stoked to hear. Glad the bolts seem in good condition still.

A few comments on this... I know in the summit register, which sounds like it's still intact, the route is named Like Father, Like Son. I actually named it the Mountaineer's Route in the mini-guidebook for the area I made way back. I apparently totally forgot I had named it otherwise, as I subsequently used that name (Like Father...) on a route in the eastern Big Horns. I guess I thought it was a clever name for some reason? Not that it really matters, I don't particularly care what it is called these days. Also, I did do this with my dad, but I was on the sharp end, drilling the bolts from stances. Jul 24, 2017

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