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Routes in Trail Lake Pinnacle

Behemoth T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Larsen Aid Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+
Mini Moses S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spring Fever S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technicality S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wide One, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YTP Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: ? unknown, but before 1984
Page Views: 553 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details

Location

On the northeast corner of the pinnacle. Walk around the pinnacle and find a low-angle ramp-like section. This is the start of the route.

See photo.

Description

Start up the slab (easy, a little runout). The top of the slab steepens a little and ends below a short vertical step climber's right. Pull up this face and onto the arete (crux). Follow the arete to the summit.

I believe this is the easiest route to the summit. It was originally climbed free on gear, then retrobolted in 2001. The summit register calls the bolted version "Like Father, Like Son," but now it is called "Mountaineer's Route." Since it is protectable with trad gear and was retro-bolted, it is likely that the route could have the bolts taken out in the future.

Protection

As of June 2018, the route has 4 good bolts to a 2 bolt summit anchor with chains. 4 draws sufficient, add a few small pieces if you want to avoid mild runouts on easy terrain.

This may revert to a trad climb at some time in the future, which would require a standard rack with emphasis on small pieces. (The 2-bolt summit anchor would be retained.)

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Thanks Eli for posting this up, it's about time it was on the internet. I remember this was a decent route up a great little desert tower transplanted to Wyoming, complete with nearby prickly pear and petroglyphs for authentic desert ambiance. I'm sure it has cleaned up a good bit in the 15 years since its establishment. I've actually bumped into a few folks over the years who have climbed it, which I always am stoked to hear. Glad the bolts seem in good condition still.

A few comments on this... I know in the summit register, which sounds like it's still intact, the route is named Like Father, Like Son. I actually named it the Mountaineer's Route in the mini-guidebook for the area I made way back. I apparently totally forgot I had named it otherwise, as I subsequently used that name (Like Father...) on a route in the eastern Big Horns. I guess I thought it was a clever name for some reason? Not that it really matters, I don't particularly care what it is called these days. Also, I did do this with my dad, but I was on the sharp end, drilling the bolts from stances. Jul 24, 2017
Nice climb, but that was first freed back in the summer of '98 and potentially as early as mid-80s. I lived in the valley for many years at Trail Lake Ranch and climbed a lot of routes there that were passed on to me by older climbers including Jamie Walton who had been on the summit of that tower in '83 or '84. Please do no assume things are FAs just because they're not online. A lot of Wyoming rock was climbed before the internet existed.

We all appreciate the desire to climb and in Torrey Valley especially as it is so unique, but please research before posting! Jan 10, 2018
After digging up my original climbing journal from the 90s, when living at Trail Lake Ranch, the FA info is as follows:
John Walker and Barry Rosenbaum had climbed this route back in circa 1984, potentially earlier and did not claim an FA, rather a known route at the time. Jamie Walton and myself climbed it in late July of 1998. Jun 27, 2018

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