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Routes in Redemption Crag

Diagon Alley T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Karkus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Redemption Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Alley T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slytherin TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown face climb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: M. LaPierre
Page Views: 155 total, 36/month
Shared By: Mark LaPierre on Jul 13, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

Slytherin is a face climb with several small, horizontal cracks. It was named for the way it twists left, right, and back left across the face before topping out to the right of the corner at its top. Slytherin requires several balance and good footwork.

Location

Slytherin is located to the right of the right face accessed by a simple scramble to a wide shelf to the right of the central face. Slytherin is started just to the right of a concave depression in the face of the slab.

Protection

It must be top roped. Several blocks with cracks above the climb allow for anchor points with cams or passive protection.

Photos

JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
I have done the line just left of this on solo TR a few times... fun, balancy climbing up the clean, blank face. I usually go straight up the face to the overlap up top into a mantle then climb the blocks to a gear anchor. The rock on this section of cliff is quite good. Jul 13, 2017