Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,517 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | - Poindexter - on Jul 13, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
We spotted this after doing Ham & cheese and so glad we climbed it.
Sure it's been climbed before, just don't know the name/history.
This route is NOT "The Number" which is farther to the left.
Dirty 5.6 trad climb with loose blocks and high rock fall potential. Best avoided if any other parties are nearby.
Lieback, jam, stem, toe jamming - it has the classic elements of a trad climb.
Start at the plush belay ledge which also serves Ham & Cheese.
P1: 38M to bush belay - this ledge is loose and takes care to build a good anchor.
P2: 30M to bolted belay of Ham & cheese
NOTE: we ran P1 & P2 together with 70M rope.
P3: 35M to tree belay. Bit grungy, needs some clean-up. There is a very large loose block in the corner directly above the Ham & Cheese belay.
With a 70M rope, you can do 3 raps to the base (via Ham & Cheese rap stations).
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