Type: Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 582 total · 19/month
Shared By: Priti Wright on Jul 13, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Gato Negro is a newer route that is quickly gaining popularity. It is a big route with fairly sustained 5.10a/b climbing, many challenging pitches, and some tricky route finding. It is a full day ordeal for most parties. While the cruxes mostly well protected, there are a few slightly runout sections on loose, 5.8 kitty litter granite. Those unaccustomed to offwidth climbing might find the chimney and 5.9+ offwidth more of a challenge than the short power crux of the double, overhanging corners higher on the same pitch. Like many longer routes in the Washington Pass area, and especially the newer ones, this route has some loose rock it’s surprisingly clean.


The climb starts to the right of a big yellow scar. There is a clean, blocky chimney to the right of the route that looks good but don’t take it; it’s not nearly as good as it looks. There is often a short firm patch of snow that must be negotiated. A good technique can be to belay a climber wearing approach shoes across the snow, chopping steps with a rock. Then the climber walks across the snow with their rock shoes on in the footsteps they just made with the rock and ascends the route.


Doubles to 2, single 3 and 4