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Sudan

5.9, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 21 votes
FA: Engle, Barnes, 2015
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock - E Face
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Start on a steep ramp that leads into a stem / chimney. Some weird moves eventually puts you on the face where you finish out the climb moving up through jugs.

Location

If you're looking at Crimson Arete, this route will be about 30 feet to your left.

Protection

10 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The trad line "Crappy Crack Line 5.9" goes up and to the left. Sport "Sudan 5.9" goes up and to the right.
[Hide Photo] The trad line "Crappy Crack Line 5.9" goes up and to the left. Sport "Sudan 5.9" goes up and to the right.
1st bolt
[Hide Photo] 1st bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

zoso
 
[Hide Comment] Feels like a LCC 5.9 at the start which is more than made up for by the patina above. Oct 27, 2018
Josh Nielsen
Southern Idaho
[Hide Comment] Pretty bold lead for a 5.9. The climbing is not challenging, but some of the bolt spacing towards the top makes you think hard about each hold. Pretty fun climbing all around. The chimney looked pretty treacherous for getting a rope caught. So when my wife followed and cleaned the route, we had her leave a link about half way up and ran the rope through it to help prevent any rope snag. It worked flawlessly; the rope did not get caught or snag on anything. Jun 18, 2019
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The length of this route is 115'. It requires a 70m rope to lower off so please knot the ends of your rope. Sep 28, 2020
[Hide Comment] Guidebook incorrectly labels this as 90', so like others have said, knot your ropes and use a 70m Oct 4, 2021
Heather Q
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] Just finished the route. There are 11 bolts.

Chimney start is interesting. Oct 2, 2022