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Routes in Higher Education Ridge, East Face

Gold Standard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let It Go S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lycra Eater T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: J. Baldwin and M. Scullion, 11/23/2008.
Page Views: 196 total, 39/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 12, 2017 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Seven reddish-painted bolts protect this short but interesting overhanging route right of Lycra Eater. Start up Lycra Eater for a body-length until the first bolt can be reached on the right. Surmount the roof (crux), clip three more bolts then step left (at the route's 4th bolt) to climb steeper and better rock to the last bulge. Here we finished the climb by moving left to ring anchors just over the lip, which seemed awkward; it may be better to turn the bulge and continue up a slab to the past a tan-painted bolt to another set of ring anchors maybe 25 feet higher (you can’t see them, but they’re there). Also, there is a bolt that appears off-route left of the sixth bolt; we didn’t try to use it (maybe it’s for a variation off of Lycra Eater?). Grade may be height-dependent.

Location

See Lycra Eater, and Spencer's photo reproduced on this page showing the route in yellow.

Protection

Nine draws, unless you continue up the slab -- then take a few more and maybe some gear.

Photos

Seems like there are two ways through the crux after the second bolt: straight up the face with a left hand crimper at V-hard, or veer right to the large chalked-up but chossy sidepulls. Option 1 seemed more legit for the route, but harder than 12a (best I could tell; I couldn't do the move). Upper half of the route was enjoyable. Aug 12, 2017
John Steiger  
 
Thanks for the info Brian. No quibble from me as to the grade, so I'll go with the FA rating; maybe the higher grade will be more seductive. Aug 4, 2017
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
The Gold Standard. FA Jeff Baldwin belayed and followed by Matt Scullion 23 November 2008. 5.12a was the consensus on that day...

Cheers! Aug 2, 2017