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Routes in Tiger Cage

Bonsai Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eye Of The Tiger T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flintstone Feet T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Give That Cat a Comb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Jersey Attitude T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This Pussy Eats You T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is Hard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Tiers T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.6 Hand Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Greg Vernon and Dwight Kroll
Page Views: 296 total · 31/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Jul 10, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the small right facing crack/corner (5.7 fingers) to the appex of the crack. At the top of the crack, there is a 2" undercling (good pro). Head above this undercling (slightly height dependant) to a small dishy ledge and up a left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, climb 20 feet and look for a small ledge that traverses to the right out onto the open face. The first bolt is located just at the end of the ledge. Climb past this bolt onto 5.7 slab (nice holes and dimples for features). Reach a second bolt, which protects a few 5.8 slab friction moves. Continue up and slightly left, aiming for a steep overlap. Once at the overlap (3/8 Alien), cross left over onto steeper face climbing (sustained 5.9) and then climb up past a flaring horizontal crack. Above the crack is the third and final bolt, clip the bolt and ascend 6 more feet to the top of the wall. No anchors on top other than a small scraggly cedar tree, 10 feet to the right of the routes intended finish.

Location

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue 50 yards further and locate a small right facing crack corner on a smooth polished slab. This crack/corner ascends 25 feet and then arches to the right. This is the start of 'Eye Of The Tiger'

Protection

Essential Gear

+ A 60 meter rope (Now reaches the ground easily when lowering from the two bolt anchor)
+ 6 Quickdraws
+ pro to 2" (#1 Camelot and 3/8" Alien works just fine!)

Photos

Ryan C
 
Ryan C  
 
this route is also known as Little Black Sambo and is generally regarded as easier 5.9. Jul 20, 2017
c b
 
c b  
 
Generally by who? Aug 4, 2017
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
It was never called Black Sambo. Dwight Kroll and Herb Laeger authored the route and it has always been called Eye Of The Tiger. Additionally, there is a crux near the end where many consider it .10a. The rest is soft 5.9 Nov 13, 2017

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