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Routes in (4) Puddy's Tower

A Little Seduction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Breathing in Aether S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Capacity Tenacity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dimension of Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Star Crunch S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tom Egan
Page Views: 191 total, 36/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

This four bolt beauty is unlike any other at Smith, for the wall is of polished tuff. The wall itself is completely smooth and incredibly hard to smear on.
The climbing starts out on good holds and then you're immediately hit with a mini crux about 10' up on small holds (Stick clip suggested).. A finicky traverse left gets you to the jug for a full rest. Ride the diagonal crack system of good holds up and right while walking your feet up the small horizontal cracks.
The crux is located between bolt 2 and 3, while riding seemingly far out right, you immediately traverse back left to clip on good holds.
After a good shake, climb to bolt 4 on small holds and deal with a potential tough clip (helps to be taller). After bolt 4, keep climbing through the redpoint crux to the anchors.

Location

Right side base of Puddy's Tower

Protection

4 bolts, anchors.

Photos

Nails!
Bullet-hard stone!
So good!
I'll redpoint it eventually?!? Oct 17, 2017
Chris, the comment "helps to be taller" makes me wonder if the fourth bolt could have been placed in a better spot. Hopefully, first ascentionists are keeping short climbers in mind while bolting. I get that some hard clips are unavoidable, even with forethought by the FA.

Chad Jul 10, 2017