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Routes in (4) Puddy's Tower

A Little Seduction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Breathing in Aether S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Capacity Tenacity S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dimension of Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Star Crunch S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tom Egan
Page Views: 386 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

This four bolt beauty is unlike any other at Smith, for the wall is of polished tuff. The wall itself is completely smooth and incredibly hard to smear on.
The climbing starts out on good holds and then you're immediately hit with a mini crux about 10' up on small holds (Stick clip suggested).. A finicky traverse left gets you to the jug for a full rest. Ride the diagonal crack system of good holds up and right while walking your feet up the small horizontal cracks.
The crux is located between bolt 2 and 3, while riding seemingly far out right, you immediately traverse back left to clip on good holds.
After a good shake, climb to bolt 4 on small holds and deal with a potential tough clip (helps to be taller). After bolt 4, keep climbing through the redpoint crux to the anchors.

Location

Right side base of Puddy's Tower

Protection

4 bolts, anchors.

Photos

Chris, the comment "helps to be taller" makes me wonder if the fourth bolt could have been placed in a better spot. Hopefully, first ascentionists are keeping short climbers in mind while bolting. I get that some hard clips are unavoidable, even with forethought by the FA.

Chad Jul 10, 2017
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Nails!
Bullet-hard stone!
So good!
I'll redpoint it eventually?!? Oct 17, 2017
Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
 
Chris Hatzai   Bend, OR
 
A funny note about this route is that when Tom submitted the route to Alan for the guide, he submitted it as 12c, not 12a.! Definitely a harder one for the 12a grade forsure Jun 29, 2018
Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
 
Chris Hatzai   Bend, OR
 
Foot holds for the direct start have broken off recently! The original start comes in from the far left.. the direct start is definitely harder than 12a! 7 days ago

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