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Blades of Glory
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Wishbone
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Blades of Glory S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broken Head S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Don't Throw Rocks TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Record Time S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rain Game, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sacktapped by a Grigri T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stan Deazy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.10a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.12 S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Wishbone Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Wishbone Right? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Kelsey Gray and Sterling Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,336 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | L. Von Dommelheimer on Jul 9, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
Description
This route consists of a semi-dangerous traverse up an awkward ramp to an awkward move to a chockstone rest (you stand on it) to some poorly spaced bolts on a blunt arete. From the belay anchor follow "interesting" and "unique" moves through a ramp that pulls out below a face. Traverse right to the edge and stand on the giant chockstone to head up the arete. Once at the anchor, you can belay here and walk off to the right or lower back down to the anchor for In Record Time. The guidebook lists this as 4 stars and that is not correct. It's fun if just for the strangeness of the moves, but not 4 stars.
Important info: Don't fall between the first and second bolt (it's not safe) Important Follower Info!: Don't unclip the draw that protects the crux move exiting the ramp until you are standing on the ledge! The swing would be unpleasant (dangerous).
You can rappel from the top of the pitch back to the ground with a 60m. Tie knots in the end.
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