Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton, July 1940
Page Views: 5,834 total · 62/month
Shared By: Jennifer L on Jul 9, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Due to the deteriorating moat in the gully, we climbed rock on the right side margin which added another pitch, not too difficult as long as there's a decent spot to step over from the snow. 

2 options for the next pitch after the moat, either climb to the top of the notch, pass the large tat covered boulder and turn left to climb to the ridge (standard route 1st pitch). Or, before reaching the notch, cross the snow and climb whiteish, blocky cleaner rock on the left side, and eventually circle back up to the ridge proper, fun 5.7ish. 

Next pitch, traverse the slabby ridge w/ a piton to a V slot gully, fun ridge climbing after. Either take it to the summit or break it up along the ridge. 

Since the rockfall, the final block is harder, either traverse right around it at balancy 5.7, or pull the 10 feet of Indian creek splitter crack at 5.8ish maybe?

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone ( nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/… ).

Location Suggest change

Using the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location ( mountainproject.com/v/dorad… ), attain the McAllister Glacier.

Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.

Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.

Protection Suggest change

Rope (30m for short rock pitches, 60m if you want to rappel the snow pitch), 2 pickets (optional to protect the snow pitch through the moat), rack (a few cams to ~2 inches, small set of nuts, maybe tricams (pink/red/brown), 4 double length slings as there's lots of natural pro to sling)

Photos

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