Dorado Needle NW Ridge
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton, July 1940|
|Page Views:||350 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Jennifer L on Jul 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionThis is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.
Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.
Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone ( nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/… ).
LocationUsing the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location ( mountainproject.com/v/dorad… ), attain the McAllister Glacier.
Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.
Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.