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Routes in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dorado Needle NW Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Ridge Easy Snow
NW Ice Couloir AI2
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton, July 1940
Page Views: 350 total · 54/month
Shared By: Jennifer L on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone (… ).


Using the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location (… ), attain the McAllister Glacier.

Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.

Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.


Rope (30m for short rock pitches, 60m if you want to rappel the snow pitch), 2 pickets (optional to protect the snow pitch through the moat), rack (a few cams to ~2 inches, small set of nuts, maybe tricams (pink/red/brown), 4 double length slings as there's lots of natural pro to sling)