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Routes in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dorado Needle NW Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Ridge Easy Snow
NW Ice Couloir AI2
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton, July 1940
Page Views: 350 total · 54/month
Shared By: Jennifer L on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone ( nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/… ).

Location

Using the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location ( mountainproject.com/v/dorad… ), attain the McAllister Glacier.

Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.

Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.

Protection

Rope (30m for short rock pitches, 60m if you want to rappel the snow pitch), 2 pickets (optional to protect the snow pitch through the moat), rack (a few cams to ~2 inches, small set of nuts, maybe tricams (pink/red/brown), 4 double length slings as there's lots of natural pro to sling)

Photos

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