Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D.Mabe 2017
Page Views: 148 total, 33/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start from the fixed semi-hanging belay stance of Edge of An Age. Climb the dihedral with splitter fingers in the right wall to an obvious horizontal break that turns the arete to the right. Follow mostly hand crack with several dubious flakes/blocks, and steepens to thin hands. Mantle to a ramp and finish on moderate hands/big hands corner with a steep finale cranking on more questionable blocks.

Location

Locate the big fallen tree on the rim of the Tralfamadore Wall. On the far west side of the tree (at the root system) is the top of the route.The Page is just left of the Book of Wasp dihedral, climbing the right side of the prow of Edge of an Age.

Protection

C4s #.3-3 with doubles of .4-1 should be more than enough. A C4#5 and .5 works for the top anchor, and the fixed belay consists of a pin and fixed nut. You can supplement with a stopper or finger sized cam.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
The top 30' or so most likely has been climbed before as a variation to Book of Wasps, though climbing from the fixed belay of EoA is probably new terrain. At any rate, it needed to be documented.

I definitely recommend the link-up with the Edge first pitch for a nice long lead. Jul 9, 2017