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Where You Fall, Direct

V1, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
New York > New York City > Central Park > Rat Rock > N Face

Description

A short, but worthy problem. I'm sure it's been done before (like everything in the park), but it's not in any guidebook, and I've never seen somebody do it.

Take the direct-line up, through the crux-section of the Rat Rock Traverse, between two cracks. Top off at the height of the land. Both cracks, and the large holds in the crack beneath the capstone-rocks to the left and right, are off.

A few variations may be had, and probably more could be found.

- V2: Eliminate the key "triangle"-crimp towards the top, which typically forms a crux hold for the Rat Rock Traverse. Very cool crux grab for the lip, done in this way. Rated V2, since it feels harder than "Mother's Milk" on the east face, and probably about as hard as "Tweaky Shit" (possibly a bit harder).

- V0+: Use the massive holds in the crack at the top, right of the proper topout. Probably about as hard as the overhang problem near the start of the Polish Traverse, so I gave it the same grade.

Location

You know that place where everybody falls off the Rat Rock Traverse? This problem is named as it is, for a reason.

Protection

No pad or spotter needed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start on green holds, yellow holds are what I used to get up. Red hold is on, for V0+ variation. Blue hold is off, for V3 variation.
[Hide Photo] Start on green holds, yellow holds are what I used to get up. Red hold is on, for V0+ variation. Blue hold is off, for V3 variation.
Go direct, between the cracks.
[Hide Photo] Go direct, between the cracks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] V2 Variation Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=FQ6btj2… Jun 20, 2023