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Routes in (1) North End

Hanging Chad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hatchet Job S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kevin Won, July 2017
Page Views: 98 total, 22/month
Shared By: wonk1132 on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

On the same pillar to the right of Hanging Chad, this line tackles a series of underclings and sidepulls on smooth hatchet flakes. Walk up on the berm right of Hanging Chad into the dihedral base to start. Pull a few stem moves then angle left below a roof, ascending to a short headwall where the bolt line forces you to double back right for a few moves to the anchor.

The first bolt is inconveniently placed farther left than seems logical, but, unfortunately, the rock is questionable where the bolt would be ideal. Short climbers should get their tall rope gun to hang the draw or stick clip it.

Please help extend the life of the Euro-anchor by rapping.

Location

As you top out on the approach trail, you run right into the Hanging Chad pillar. Hatchet Job is the route on the right side of this formation, separated from the route on the left by about eight feet.

Protection

6? bolts to a Euro-anchor.

For whatever reason, euro-anchors confuse the heck out of some climbers as there is only one rap ring. The rig is exceedingly safe (safer than side-by-side bolt anchors) as it it can't extend if one bolt fails. It's made entirely out of 304 stainless steel.

Use your own hardware to top-rope as you always would, then rap off. The ring is welded directly into the bottom hanger, making replacement a real pain. Help maintain the longevity of the ring by not lowering off and not top-roping through the rap-ring.

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Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10-
I found this a brief, but enjoyable route after passing the scary flakes and slab near the start.

In fact, the route seems temporary given the nature of the rock. I can't imagine it'll be there too long once those flakes see more use. Aug 14, 2017