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Routes in River Wall

Bare Necessities S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blustery Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brother Bear S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buns Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leyechen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Story S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vast Emptiness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Who's First? V2- 5+ R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Lewis
Page Views: 159 total, 30/month
Shared By: Mike A. Lewis on Jul 8, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Lead Only Area Details

Description

There are 4 cruxes on this route. Basically, each bulge presents its own challenge.

Heads up: the first bolt is up about 12-15 feet. The rock below the first bolt is not good enough for a bolt, so I didn't put one in. The landing is mulch and flat. Clipping the first bolt and then getting to the 2nd bolt is its own crux. Consider using a stick clip.

Currently, there is a loose block about the size of a 1/2 gallon of ice cream under a small roof just below and left of the 4th bolt. I wailed on it for 30 minutes, and it wouldn't come out. It's a great handhold! So, I think it's usable, but be careful. If you can get it out, great!

Clipping the last bolt is tough. Save some juice for that.

Other than the initial 12' and the loose block, the rock is quite good.

Location

This route begins in the same chossy dihedral as Bare Necessities. Look up through the overhanging bulges, and you will see a line of bolts.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 chain anchors.

Photos

Fun moves and pretty aesthetic. The last bolt is hard to clip, a bit high for what it is protecting (two easy moves before the anchor). I clipped it with a long sling to minimize the probability of a bad clipping fall. Some crumbly rock that should clean up with a few more ascents. Aug 5, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
I "Hong-Sighted" this at 11c. It was much harder than that. Jul 24, 2017