Forgotten North Face
Trad, Alpine, 560 ft (170 m), Grade III,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Dakota Walz & Ryan Gajewski, 7/2016
> Alpine Rock
> RMNP - Rock
> Long's Peak
> Keyboard of the Winds
Seasonal Closures March 1-July 31. Per this RMNP website
, "Initial closures occur in March and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website
This is a fun route up surprisingly good rock just left of the prow of Mrs. Stubbs. We didn't rope up for most of the FA, so the pitch lengths are a rough estimate.
Take the Glacier Gorge trail to Green Lake, and hike up the grueling North Gully between the Keyboard of the Winds and Pagoda Mountain. After reaching the base of Sievers' Tower, hike East across the base of the Keyboards until reaching Mrs. Stubbs marked by her long spine extending west.
P1. From the base of Mrs. Stubbs, locate the ledge system just left of her prow. Jaunt up the ledges until the climbing begins to thin (5.0, 150 feet).
P2-4. Many easy options follow up this face through ledges, flakes, and even a hidden, low angle, splitter finger crack. Consistent 5.8 climbing drives straight up and slightly left to the towers summit (410 feet).
There is supposed to be a rap station on this tower, but we couldn't find it, so we downclimbed a 5.7ish corner for 40 feet on the tower's back side. Hike down the gully between Mr. and Mrs. Stubbs.
A single rack.