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Routes in Otis Flower Tower

Fallen Hero T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Heat Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Otis Eaters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: B. Rosenberg, B. Collett, July 2017
Page Views: 65 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 5, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is more or less a direct start to a combination of Heat Wave and Otis Flower Tower.

1) Climb the dihedral until it ends at a ledge, step right, and climb the first crack system on the right. Follow this to another ledge where one can step left into a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Follow this to the large treed ledge, 300 feet, 5.7.

2) Climb nebulous terrain up the prow of the buttress to another comfortable ledge, 250 feet, 5.6.

3) Continue up the prow to where the wall steepens. Follow steep cracks for 30 feet until one can step left to belay at the base of a short but nice looking, right-facing corner, 300 feet, 5.9.

4) Climb the corner, and continue up a series of pleasant cracks to a large ledge on the prow that is shared with the route Otis Flower Tower, 150 feet, 5.9+.

5-6) Follow Otis Flower Tower to the top. Climb the crack system above to the ridge crest, avoid a gendarme on the right, regain the ridge, and head to the top, 5.9, 300 feet.

To descend, rap off the summit with two rope into the gully west of the feature. Scramble and rap the gully. It may take a little bit of sleuthing to find the anchors, but have faith (and bring some tat).

Location

The route starts in a prominent, stepped, left-facing corner at the base of the buttress.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Camalot.

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