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Routes in The Paper Wall

100 weight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angela's open project. TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Birch tree crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Closed Project T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Origami S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paper Mache T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paper Street Soap Company-Project-, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Papyrus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulp Friction Project T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Toilet Paper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Sean Foster
Page Views: 95 total, 21/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Jul 5, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

This incredible, amazing line was uncovered after multiple days of scrubbing and bolting over two trips to the wall in the spring of 2017.

When Sean came up from MSP for an inspiring attempt at the FA on the end of the second day of a three day trip, he fell at the clipping jug. While I was on belay, catching the fall, and hearing a FUCCCCKKKKKKKK!!!!!!! ring out across the lake it could have been heard all the way down to Minnesota's "North Shore". That being said, beverages were consumed around the camp fire that night, and a lighter third day was in order to bring the psyche and the send! With time running down before the drive home had to begin, and a light drizzle making it's way across the bay to the west, Sean tightened his laces and off he went. It started to rain just as he clipped the anchors. The send was sweet, but I am sure returning home at 5am for a 8am work start was not the icing on the cake.


Start the line working a few ledges up a broken section of the rock to clip your first two bolts. Work the corner on the left into a hand jam or stay right at the 4th bolt, either way they both take you up to the large rest jug/rail almost at 1/2 height. Recover here to start the crux climbing. Work the right edge, simultaneous while working the left edge-compression is your friend-match left, find the largest right foot you can find to push off of, reach high and right to grab the money slot to make the crux clip. A few more similar moves will bring you up and to the final, but smaller rest of the route. Recover as best as you can for the final few clips before the chains. Up and right to a small finger pocket, to an undercling to the clipping hold wishing it would be just a little better than what it is, but realizing it's good enough to bring you safely back to the ground post send.

Congrats, you just sent Origami.

Location

Left of Paper Mache. Find the black wall, find the bolts. look up and you are there.

Protection

12 clips to the anchor.

Photos

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