Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Paper Wall

100 weight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angela's open project. TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Birch tree crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Closed Project T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Origami S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paper Mache T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paper Street Soap Company-Project-, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Papyrus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulp Friction Project T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Toilet Paper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: currently an open project
Page Views: 91 total, 17/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Jul 5, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This line is currently an open project. I am adding it to the database for people to see more of what is available at the crag. It has been TR'd clean at 10+ and is awaiting its first lead.

A beautiful, thin corner to a thank-god sit down ledge at 1/2 height to rest up for the action above. Climb the corner above to a small roof, trend right and then up a dirty slot to to clip the chains. The route is 5 stars, but the finish brings it down one star.

Location

The start of this climb is by gaining a large block by either climbing the off-width chimney or the left arete of the block. It is located two meters left of the start of Papyrus.

Protection

Basic trad rack with extra thin gear. RP's and small wires are useful for the first 1/3 of the route, and basic hand size cams above. One #4 could be useful to get to the ledge, but is not necessary. Bolted anchor on top.

Photos

Shane Steele
Grand Marais, MN
Shane Steele   Grand Marais, MN
Jon,
As a Palisade climber I would have graded it at 5.11a/b for that thin low crux and sustained nature of the route. It reminded me of a mix between Yellow Feather and Gun Fight. For a T-Bay area grade I think it would be land somewhere in the .10d/.11a range. So .10+ isn't far off. If I get back there with a mind to clean that top section up a bit I will lead it. We also climbed the two wide 5.9s which were fun! We finished by TRing the closed project. What a fantastic climb! Can't wait until it's finished as I would make the trip up again just to lead that route (and get on the other routes we didn't get too...). Overall thought the crag was excellent. Taller and steeper than the photos show, I like it. Lots more potential in this area for sure. Oct 23, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
 
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
 
Shane,
Stoked you got up to the wall. Get on any other routes? And yeah, there is still some loose stuff as you maybe are the third person to get on the line after only a 1/2 a days worth of work to clean it first.

And yeah, I am a DL climber, and PHead is graded for the lead! So what so you think it clocks in at? Harder or softer? ;) Oct 22, 2017
Shane Steele
Grand Marais, MN
Shane Steele   Grand Marais, MN
There is a very large detached flake (maybe size of a mini-fridge door?) about 3/4 of the way up this route that is ready to come down. The last 1/4 of the route is quite loose as well. This spooked me off the lead, or at least that is what I will tell myself. After top roping it once I would say the .10+ grade is more of a Devil's Lake style rating for this Palisade Head climber. Excellent climbing except for that top section! Oct 22, 2017