Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Arete Murciélago

5.12c, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Eli Helmuth
International > N America > Puerto Rico > River Wall (Ciales)

Description

Three cruxes in the second, continuously overhanging 35m pitch. Amazing position and different styles of difficulties including a 12' roof at the top through hueco's and stalactites.

Location

Furthest route right on this section of the River Wall. Start on an easy slab to a ledge then four bolts through an 11a steep ending with a mantle. Use a long sling then traverse right and up for 60' to the anchor on a big ledge. Second pitch is straight up to the big white roof at the top of the cliff.

Protection

17 stainless bolts including one fixed steel draw in the roof at the end of the second pitch. The first approach pitch has 10 bolts in 30m and you may want to haul packs up to the lunch ledge rather than carry through this steep start It's nice to have water and supplies on the big ledge where the real meat of the climbing lies and where you'll likely be spending most of the day.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jorge Lassus clipping after the arete crux.
[Hide Photo] Jorge Lassus clipping after the arete crux.
Lower "Dyno Crux" on Murcielago.
[Hide Photo] Lower "Dyno Crux" on Murcielago.
Jorge Lassus getting into the second crux section on Arete Murcielago and the bat's home that the route is named for is just left of his feet.
[Hide Photo] Jorge Lassus getting into the second crux section on Arete Murcielago and the bat's home that the route is named for is just left of his feet.